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On the ledge at the top of the route Rainbow Bridge, walk N/NE perhaps 10 meters, Passing the Routes "One In The Chamber" and "Over The Rainbow", perhaps by 4 meters to reach an left-leaning low angle crack going up the W/NW Facing wall. There is a single small tree about 1/2 way up this. Climb up the crack protecting as you see fit to reach to top of the rock. Near the top attention must be given to rock quality, as protection will be as good as you make it. This may not be the best lead for a [newbie] leader, but CAN be protected just fine with some wisdom/good judgement.
To descend, rap W/NW from the fixed anchor atop the Nebel Horn Summit, then again as for Rainbow Bridge. The webbing is new, but please consider backing this up with additional webbing and a rapid link, as it is presently a single set of webbing and single biner. It will require a total of ~8 meters to reach both threading points.
A standard light rack with cams to 3.5"
|By William McGehee|
From: Choctaw, OK
Aug 9, 2005
I felt this route may have been a tad easier than 5.7, but not by much. I would like to reiterate Tony's suggestion that the rock on the upper portion (starting at the tree and beyond) is not terribly solid. I cleaned what I could remove with my hands and removed stones that were next to the tree, but be careful nonetheless. Just be certain of what you grab. If you're in the area, you likely got there by climbing Rainbow Bridge, so there shouldn't be any problems with difficulty on lead.Hand sized cams are the way to protect this route with optional gear above #3 camalot.