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Scare Crow 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White 3/14/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: bradley white on Mar 16, 2012
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It takes distance up the cliff before the best climbing happens. Move up direct to move across left to lesser angled foot ledges and go up to reach the rock protrusion ahead left. Crux awkwardly over it and move up right to move back left at the boulder. The creepy boulder is solid enough and I used it solidly to move left. Above left of the boulder is a break in the wall. High up through this break are good handholds. Move through the break to the main cliff easily. High right step up on a narrow ledge. Crux to get to the pine tree midway up the cliff. Problematic tree climbing with a backpack on. There are really good cracks and I avoided the tree as much as possible. Great location standing above the tree. Climb up and go farthest left to the outside corner edge. Across is Lonesome Dove cliff. Climb the steeply angled outside corner (5.4) exposed and protection would be a slung horn. The higher rock on the horn is solidly stacked but eerily there. After that a short slab to the top. Route doesn't look good from the ground but is mostly clean rock climbing after 40ft.

Some days I get the gumption to free solo on sight climbs. So I did. Poor protection at the start up and through the break to the main cliff (40ft) After that the pro is decent. After the climb, climb higher and reach cairn. Move left towards the top of Lady and the Tramp whether you see the cairn or not. From here there is the trail down.


Walk past Lonesome dove wall and keep on trail until you can traverse up left and go under overhang to get further up left at trees. A fallen tree is there too sit on. Start the climb underneath that big rock on the ledge (only a ominous boulder).


trad gear

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