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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Birch Ade 
Chicken of the Sea 
Chlitlin Corner 
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Crack Of Senility 
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Old Town 
Philidelphia Story, The 
Pipe Dreams 
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Return to Forever 
Rusticator 
Scaramouche Arete 
Sea Gypsy 
Space Between 
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Unsorted Routes:

Scaramouche Arete 

5.11d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Aug 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The arete

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Description 

Technical/Balance/Thin


Location 

This route is the first arete to the left of Return to Forever, shares anchor with Return to Forever


Protection 

5 Bolts



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By David Friend
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.12

This description is a bit dated. Some updates:

- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.

This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.11d

While this climb mostly is on the face, there were certainly a number of key moves I did on the arete. Was i doing it right? I dunno, but it felt at the grade. If you like tenuous, smedge fests where you feel like you could fall at any moment, and your feet shouldn't be sticking where they are, then this is a good route to hop on. I would argue that it's pretty reasonably protected, despite the fact that it can be a little heady to lead. Didn't bring any cams and belayed off of the Return to forever bolts just fine...