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This route is the first arete to the left of Return to Forever, shares anchor with Return to Forever
|Comments on Scaramouche Arete
|By David Friend|
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
This description is a bit dated. Some updates:
- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.
This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
While this climb mostly is on the face, there were certainly a number of key moves I did on the arete. Was i doing it right? I dunno, but it felt at the grade. If you like tenuous, smedge fests where you feel like you could fall at any moment, and your feet shouldn't be sticking where they are, then this is a good route to hop on. I would argue that it's pretty reasonably protected, despite the fact that it can be a little heady to lead. Didn't bring any cams and belayed off of the Return to forever bolts just fine...
|By Dave Pfurr|
Jul 11, 2013
I have a "fond" memory of doing this route in the long ago, before the added bolts. I'd just finished leading "Fingers in the Seascape" and got lured by the line of bolts above--not knowing what route it was or the grade. My belayer was a non-climber friend. Nevertheless, he caught me on several short falls 3/4 of the way up. The clips were scary. Afterward, in the dark and back at the car, I first learned what I'd been on. The old guidebook warned that the bolts were badly positioned and recommended that you top-rope the route. Hopefully, with the addition of new bolts, this line has been improved.