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This route is the first arete to the left of Return to Forever, shares anchor with Return to Forever
|Comments on Scaramouche Arete
|By David Friend|
Jul 9, 2012
This description is a bit dated. Some updates:
- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.
This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 6, 2012
While this climb mostly is on the face, there were certainly a number of key moves I did on the arete. Was i doing it right? I dunno, but it felt at the grade. If you like tenuous, smedge fests where you feel like you could fall at any moment, and your feet shouldn't be sticking where they are, then this is a good route to hop on. I would argue that it's pretty reasonably protected, despite the fact that it can be a little heady to lead. Didn't bring any cams and belayed off of the Return to forever bolts just fine...