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Feudal Wall (Left Side)
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Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
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Swishbah Variations T 


YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,042
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Mar 31, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Scaramouch and Feudal Wall formation.


This easy route allows access to Coyote In the Bushes (5.10a). The bottom half of the route is fun.


small to large cams or nuts

Photos of Scaramouch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: The climber just finished the first half of the cl...
BETA PHOTO: The climber just finished the first half of the cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Scaramouch". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Scaramouch". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kai (6)
Kai (6)

Comments on Scaramouch Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 22, 2015
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 16, 2005
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

I just noticed that the poster of this route has the "Bomb" on it...I totally disagree...sure it is quite easy...for those with a decent amount of experience...but for the beginner, and as a "First lead", it is perfect!!! I have used this route many times to teach how to place pro and basic "Crack" techniques...it also allows for good "anchor" work...not a bomb in my opinion...also it is a blast for those that enjoy easier soloing.....
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun solo! Fun variation following jugs to the right of the crack.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

I agree it is a fun solo although a few hand holds are coming loose. Dont pull to hard
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 26, 2007

I agree with Locker. This route was my first trad lead four years ago. I have used this route twice to teach others on their first trad climbs...An enjoyable route for beginners.
By colin tuck
From: Moab
Dec 22, 2008

good first lead, and fun solo. I took two friends here for their first leads on the same day, and solo cleaned both times.
By Eric O'Rafferty
From: Altadena, CA
Feb 25, 2009

Yup, definitely a good first lead.

I think even I could solo this climb!
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

A great warm up, or introduction climb in JTree. I thought 5.2/5.3, but at that level, who cares? The start has gotten a bit thin over the years, due to holds breaking off.
By agd
Dec 30, 2011

Feels like fourth class. Not worth doing, unless you need a quick way to the top. I only placed one piece in the first section and climbed up to the bolt anchor on top of Swishbah.

I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jul 17, 2014
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

"I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities."

More than enough placements. Not sure how you could see it otherwise.
By Steve Powell
Jul 18, 2014

Wow, a blast from the past.
I just think there are better 5.2 cracks around. I agree with you though, you can sew this thing up.
By Gary Schenk
Jan 22, 2015
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

I enjoyed it.
By J--
From: Southern California
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

I just took my kids (age 9 and 6) on this route 12,21,2015. I thought it was a great route to teach kids confidence on the rock. It was an easy solo to the top to set anchor for their top-rope, too. However, I met several free soloists that use this route as a "warm up" for their work out. In retrospect, maybe its better to teach kids to climb somewhere they are not constantly being passed up or otherwise encumbering this route.

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