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Mill Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dreams  S 
Bulge to Groove T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Deflator-Mouse T,S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Dirty Boulevard, The S 
Eye of the Tiger S 
Face T,TR 
Face (left of Freeway) TR 
Feline Antics S 
Freeway T,TR 
Groper TR 
Honey Pot T,TR 
Jug Haul T,TR 
Lou Reed  T 
Pit of Despair, The T,S 
Roof Rack T 
Scantily Trad T 
Slot Machine S 
Sweet Petite S 

Scantily Trad 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Summer 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Deceptively easy looking Scantily Trad with two ki...

Description 

Begin just right of the fully trad route called Roof Rack, which is the roof and corner system. Scantily Trad should be obvious with its five bolts leading to a headwall crack. The rock on ST is excellent. Hard and continuously devious climbing begins at clip two and remains complex and powerful until halfway through the crack above. While there are hard sequences at each bolt but # 1, getting to and past bolts 3 and 4 sets up a long and complex crux. Having the draws in place saves some major pump. ST gets full southwest sun after 1:00pm and is climbable well past sunset.

Location 

Scantily Trad starts just RIGHT of Roof Rack. Jug Haul starts off a bolt but is LEFT of Roof Rack.

Protection 

Five draws, a few small cams, and/or wired stoppers. Double bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Scantily Trad Slideshow Add Photo
Not Rifle but still steep.
Not Rifle but still steep.

Comments on Scantily Trad Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This route could be an excellent route if the last 2 bolts were moved a bit to the left. In their current location, the rope runs diagonally under your feet during the slightly tweaky crux, and you have the potential for a total flossing. Also, both biners are mangled around a corner. Moving the 2 bolts a bit left would 'feather' it nicely into the crack.

The rock at the start is pretty wild. It is really smooth, kind of like climbing a granite kitchen counter top, yet not slippery.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 17, 2015

Interesting, Slim. When Patrick and jumped on it, I had a similar thought, perhaps a foot, perhaps less. The last bolt was placed with the idea of clipping off the incut, but this might still work with the bolt a foot to the left. I'll do it. How far are you thinking?
By slim
Administrator
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Man, that is so funny about the incut - I did the route several times before I 'accidently' found it as I was falling off and snagged it. That thing is sooo hidden, even when you are looking at it. It definitely makes clipping the last one a lot easier.

I think if you could move it a foot or maybe 18 inches left it should be good (assuming the rock is good for a bolt). For me, the crux was that sort of 'dynamic high step' with the right foot. I was relieved when it went - I was pretty nervous about the potential floss'n'toss :)

Really nice climbing on this one.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 20, 2015

Job done; 4th and 5th bolts shifted left approximately 18 inches according to the integrity of the rock. The rope does indeed feed nicely to the crack. The added bonus is that clipping 4 and 5 is easier than before. The step into the crack is a tiny bit more airy but not really any cause for concern.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Awesome, thanks Richard - a really nice set of routes on this wall. Definitely a little gem for the area.
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