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Scandanavian Airlines 
Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Scandanavian Airlines 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Schillaci, 7/89
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
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Description 

Scandanavian Airlines is the first bolted arete you come to at the BONP (the southernmost bolted climb at the crag). Because it's one of the easier sport climbs at BONP, many choose to warm up on this route before bumping up to the 1st Class aretes such as Flesh-Eating Gnats and Wailing Banshees. However, the harder-than-expected thin crux at the top has let climbers accumulate many frequent flyer miles on Scandanavian Airlines.

Start just right of the arete, using small pockets and small ledges for handholds. At the 3rd bolt, things get thinner, use smaller crimps on the left-hand face and a monopocket just right of the arete. After the thin crux moves, you'll get to the first set of chains. You can continue past this anchor to another 3-bolt anchor (that of Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie), but is really only worth it if you want to set a TR on those climbs.

Leaders near their limit may find the 2nd bolt to be unnervingly high and the 3rd bolt to be difficult to clip.

This climb is a good way to reach the anchor for Inflight Movie and Monsterpiece Theatre if you want to toprope those classic 5.12s but aren't quite up for leading them.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; or continue to another (3-bolt) anchor, shared with Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie.



Comments on Scandanavian Airlines Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 1, 2007

Wow did this climb seem hard for the grade!

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I agree with Michael - pretty stiff for 10c. May be easier if you have smaller fingers that will fit in the pockets below the 3rd bolt. Fun climb overall though.

By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Apr 9, 2010

I was cruising right along and then the holds disappeared. Its a short crux but I think you could make the case for 11.a

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is such a pile that it hardly seems worth commenting on, but since my comment really applies to the whole area, I will say it anyway.

I truly appreciate the effort of whomever replaced one of the aging bolts on this thing, but in the future, please consider doing a better job getting the old stud out and camouflaging the old hole. The stud that remains at the third bolt is a real eyesore and if all of the bolts at WR were replaced in such a manner, the cliffs would look hideous.

If anyone needs info on how to replace old hardware (including camouflaging old holes and many other bolting topics), you can find it on the ASCA website here:

www.safeclimbing.org/education.htm

Best.