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Scandalous Summer 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Shewchuk, Grant Hiskes & Bill Serniuk (Blitzo), 2004.
Page Views: 2,580
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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  • Description 

    A fun, easy climb at the far left of the wall.

    Climb low angle knobs past bolts to a ledge with trees.

    Crux is after the last bolt.



    Left of Corporal Klinger.



    Comments on Scandalous Summer Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Matt N
    From: Santa Barbara, CA
    Jul 5, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Good warmup. Crux after last bolt.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 9, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    There are seven bolts on this climb, not five. And,for some reason they FA party didn't use the washer which comes with Rawl "5-piece" bolts to help distribute the load between the bolt head and the hanger. Lastly, I believe the 3rd(or was it the 4th) bolt has the metal sleeve partly protruding and smashed flat to the rock. Not a very good bolting job, IMHO.
    By Nicole BI
    From: Oakland, CA
    Aug 14, 2013

    please reclassify this as sport rather than trad, thanks
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Aug 14, 2013

    Hi Nicole,

    I noticed that you have posted several comments regarding changing route definitions from trad to sport, so here is the reason why these routes are listed as trad. In general most folks define a route to be sport if it is all bolted and the bolts are closely spaced. There are many, many all bolted climbs in Tuolumne that certainly do not meet this criteria (i.e. they are way runout). Thus if a route is all bolted, but is runout at all, most people denote it as a trad route to signify to interested parties that they should not expect sport bolt spacing. Its not a perfect way of defining a route, but it is pretty widespread amongst the community.

    I hope that helps.
    By Nicole BI
    From: Oakland, CA
    Sep 30, 2013

    Thanks for the clarification, J. It would make it easier to search the site for climbs that entail placing gear versus those which require only draws if these were classified as "sport" but I certainly understand the point behind classifying Tuolumne runouts as trad climbs, and appreciate your explanation. I deleted my other similar comments :)
    By Eric A Beck
    Mar 18, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    We did this last summer. Bring 1" and 1.5" cams for two horizontal cracks toward the top of the route.
    By Fat Dad
    From: Los Angeles, CA
    Jun 27, 2016

    Really fun climb. Despite a good number of bolts, it should be considered trad bolted (although generous by Tuolumne standards), not a sport climb. If the top is wet, which it is early season, you can climb up and right from the last bolt, though it's a little stiffer than 5.7. Some will feel better by bringing a gold camalot to place above the last bolt. Finally, given the traffic from the three routes leading to Blitzo's Terrace, some thought should be given to installing a bolted rap anchor to give the poor tree a break. It's holding up fine now, but the continued use will take its toll. As of this past weekend, the raps slings were pretty stiff and crunchy, so I sacrificed a couple of newer slings and a biner to back it up.

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