Scamper Proof  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Rob Robinson, Curt Merchant, Pate Perrin, Mark Cole - 1986 Submitted By:  camhead on Dec 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Scampering. Feb., 2011, photo by Donny.

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Description 

This is a really classic mix of roof, fingercrack and thin face climbing. Starts in the same short dihedral as "Points O' Contact," although the guidebook says that "stemming is off-route," whatever that means.

Move left through some underclings to get established beneath the obvious finger crack over the roof. Pulling the roof is hard, but beyond that are a couple more cruxes of sustained, cerebral, techy climbing, separated by decent rests. This route doesn't really let up until the final 20 feet.

There is also a two-bolt direct start, which feels like a hard v5 boulder problem. It won't add any points to your 8a.nu scorecard, but definitely makes the route harder!

Location 

Shares start with the 5.10 "Points o'Contact," about 20 feet left of the unmissable "Fingerlockin' Good."

Protection 

There is actually more pro than appears from the ground, and you'll rarely run it out more than a body length. Lots of stoppers and smaller cams; I don't think I brought anything bigger than a .5 camalot. Runners are key for the initial pro as well.