|Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
Because this route is so close to many of the classic lines at Poke-O, it is often over-looked. Don't miss this one!
Scallion is a full- value route. It involves some unprotected, but relatively easy climbing (5.6 R) to begin the route, some Houdini corner moves protected by two bolts, then some of the finest moderate crack climbing on the cliff.
If you are shorter than 5.7, the moves entering the corner and clipping the first bolt may feel a little difficult, so be thoughtful. However, a truck green Camalot placement in a horizontal below the right-facing corner helps ease off some of the jitters.
The route ends at a bolt anchor.
About 300 feet the left of the giant Thunderhead Roof is a clean, bottomless right-facing corner that starts approximately 15 feet off a grassy ledge.
Two bolts, and a full rack of small gear. Doubles are helpful and the addition of one red Camalot.
|By Derek Doucet|
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
High on the list of most pleasant .10- pitches at Poko. Climbing Scallion, Home Rule, and The Natural (all .10 a or b, and all starting within about 30' of one another) is a perfect way to fill out a day of Poko cragging.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011
I wouldn't say PG 13. Crux moves are all well protected with small gear.