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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Teresa Nagle, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
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Top is run out friction.


Strenuous hard (5-6) start off of the ground protected by Army ring angle pin in dirty crack. Enter the dirt and the trees. Then a few feet later move left into a wide crack on the left wall of the corner. Above the crack a hard (5-6) step up on the wall to a ledge with a detached block to be maneuvered around. Then an easier (5-3) ramp to a decent belay ledge with a tree. I belayed Teresa up and she pushed off the rock block from the cliff. Second part started up right on slab to clip a very old large solid rivet bolt (1950-60 Darcy?). Went on up a steep moderate (5-5) ramp above bolt to do 40ft of easy (5-2) run out to the belay of the 'British Were Coming'. I believe the climb Teresa and I did isnít a new ascent and parts of it discovery of an old ascent. This climb is classical and the rock has a unique roughness to it like there is at the top of the cliff. The protection on the climb is adequate and the trees are enjoyable surroundings. The tree corner itself doesn't get climbed except for a few feet after the start. The inaccessible excellent upper crack of 'Add Libs' is accessible again.


Tree filled corner right of where the giant slab had been to Add Libs, or down left from British Were Coming.


Small Trad rack.

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