SR is an excellent crag just off the road and composed of truly fine granite. Presently four routes have been established, all sport. These include the face left of the arete (AA), the arete itself (A, The Saxon Arete), the face right of the arete (B, Wanted Man), and the west facing slab furthest right (C, West Slab). The crag gets good afternoon sun and can be climbed on all but the most snowy days.
From the Georgetown exit on I-70, drive under the highway, across the bridge, and to the end of the road at its intersection with Main Street. Follow Main Street left through the neighborhood to the beginning of the Saxon Mountain Road. Park at the dumpster just beyond the road sign. SR can be approached from a rough trail 100 feet east of the dumpster. Approach time is a few minutes from the car.
Chase the arete via 10 bolts. Stemming the start changes the intent and brings the rating to 11d. Stay on the arete all the way, as intended, and it is probably 12a. This has good climbing and steep, solid granite. It is the obvious line. The exit to the chains is guarded by an awkward move, so save a little juice for the end....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Re:"People have been top roping these little climbs for years. Not that I am opposed to bolting them, they are fun. But... had you considered the local ethics before you bolted them and claimed a first ascent? I am not trying to be disrespectful. I am just a local who in fact learned to climb on these routes, definitely before 2009, and I know I was not the first to do so. Does it count as a FA only if you bolt it?"
Wow! I can't believe that it has been over a year since I looked into this site. With respect to above comment: Rap inspection of the "Saxon Arete", the cracks on "Wanted Man", and the "South Face" route suggested no prior activity. The cracks were filled with vegetation and loose blocks that were cleaned up when my routes went in. The arete required extensive cleaning, removal of large blocks and hanging flakes. Most climbers would not consider it completely clean at this time. South Face required extensive brushing, removal of numerous loose blocks, and by most standards still needs some brushing above. Furthermore, as a beginner training route it seems a tad stiff. Even Chris Sharma did not launch his climbing at middle 5.12, although I am aware that are many hot young climbers out there who may well have done exactly that. The "West Slab" route may or may not have been climbed. All of its horizontal seams required extensive removal of vegetation. Perhaps prior climbers did not care about such things. However, the existing route does not look protectable by anything but bolts. Finally, I was unable to locate any evidence of top anchors suggestive of any convenient top-rope access.