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 ADVANCED
Sax Wall

Select Route:
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 
2) Body and Soul T,S 
3) Morphine S,TR 
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 
8) Easy Sax is the Best Sax S 

Sax Wall  


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Page Views: 5,084
Administrators: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE, James Loveridge, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ferrells on Oct 7, 2010
Forecast:
Today

41-59°F
Sun

32-63°F
Mon

39-64°F
Tue

47-70°F
Wed

51-73°F
Thu

59-81°F
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Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile.

Description 

West facing great for winter climbing on warmer days with sun. In summer better to start in morning and bring bug spray of course. Great collection of 5.9's, 10's and one 11. All routes are accessible from the top so they can be TR'd. To gain access to the top anchors, approach is 50 yards to the right next to Drill Hole Wall.

If leading, beware of multiple ledges to avoid ankle injuries.

You can climb on Diagonals and Sax walls in the winter when it is 40 degrees or higher on a sunny day no wind. Diagonals faces south and Sax faces west. Sax comes into the sun at 12:30pm. It is a little Dutch Oven sheltered from the wind. Enjoy! almost year round....





Getting There 


Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sax Wall:
8) Easy Sax is the Best Sax   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
3) Morphine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
7) Crack With No Name   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
4) Sax-a-holic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
1) A Little Spicy!!!   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 45'   
2) Body and Soul   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
5) Multiple SAX Partners   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Sax Wall

Featured Route For Sax Wall
Route 1 on left

1) A Little Spicy!!! 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  MN : Sandstone : ... : Sax Wall
Start left of bolt. Use foot ledges on left and lie back on good drill hole edges up high left and right.Was named because it gets "spicy" above last bolt but I went back and bolt protected it....[more]   Browse More Classics in MN

Photos of Sax Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Sax Left
BETA PHOTO: Sax Left
Sax Middle
BETA PHOTO: Sax Middle
New route on left of Sax Wall. Haven't named it ye...
BETA PHOTO: New route on left of Sax Wall. Haven't named it ye...

Comments on Sax Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shawn P. Tracy
Apr 25, 2011
Be aware of the potential for ledge falls on these retro-bolted routes. If you are aspiring to lead a given grade, then start at other crags, gain wisdom on detecting risk, honestly weighing chance of fall versus skill and fitness, how to mitigate for risk and in developing a clear, strong, committed head. Otherwise, if the current bolt locations don't change, be prepared for a visit to the hospital if you fall and the crag getting closed. Sorry, this isn't meant to be spray/negative/accusitory - it's meant to warn newer climbers of a risk that might not currently be appreciated.
By adamD
4 days ago
Saw a lot of people lowering off the anchors, and had a few discussions about whether that's OK - The consensus there seemed to be that where there are new steel biners on the ends of the chains, this was the intended use. 1) because the steel will last 10x longer than the aluminum ones seen elsewhere/previously at Sandstone, and 2) because they are replacable, no one will ever have to re bolt the entire anchor to fix a worn-out biner.

Is this the consensus here, or did the few folks that I spoke with simply think they had the right logic, but did not speak for everybody?
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