Save the Shrimp  5.8 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  1983 JD & SF Season:  Any - when not closed for raptures Submitted By:  Fussman on Jun 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route has friction, cracks, traverses, overhangs, water grooves and more and is an absolute blast. There are some areas where the route is run out, but at most of the critical areas there is sufficient pro. You can easily exit the route at pitch 2.

Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux
Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8
Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8
Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8
Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8
Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8

The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face. The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's). I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route. The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers. Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.

Location 

Approx 150 feet along the first remants of cliff on the trail that goes to the main face. You will go past a gulley that goes up the left side of the face. The exit is approx 150 feet below the trail that is on the top of the mountain. There is the remnants of a trail through the trees at the top. Take the main trail down to the parking lot.

Protection 

-Full rack of cams
-Plenty of small tricams
-Full rack of stoppers
-Long slings
-Cliff hanger with a water bottle to protect part of the pitch 4 traverse
-Do not know the statis of the bolts currently on the route.
-Full length rope and second rope if you have to rap off.