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Save It For A Rainy Day
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Save It For A Rainy Day T,TR 

Save It For A Rainy Day 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a A1-2

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Aid, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a A1-2 [details]
FA: FA:TrundleBum and Ignacio Delgado 11/30/07 FFA:Joseph Smith 1/24/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,728
Submitted By: Joseph Smith on Feb 1, 2011

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Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From Pending Disaster make your way down to the wash and follow it west towards first pullout for @400m. You will see the obvious flat orange wall and pretty crack @25m up the hill on your right. As you pass the large boulders in the wash head up the hill to the base of the wall. The line takes the most direct route up the face. Both lines to the right and left have gone as well.

The gear is pretty straight forward: med stoppers, small cams( green c3-.75 bd), cams(#1-#3bd) and a few extendable runners. Chain anchors on top. It is possible to TR, but the chains are low. So, you may want to build an anchor to get to them.

Be safe, have fun and enjoy this fun crack climb!! Thanks Trundlebum for sharing this route with me!!


Photos of Save It For A Rainy Day Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: mid section of the route
mid section of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Iggy cleaning.
BETA PHOTO: Iggy cleaning.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the beginning of the route for the FFFA
Working the beginning of the route for the FFFA
Rock Climbing Photo: Save it for a Rainy Day F.A
BETA PHOTO: Save it for a Rainy Day F.A
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of the route.
The crux of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the wash on the approach to Save it for ...
BETA PHOTO: View from the wash on the approach to Save it for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping the anchors, and getting the first free f...
clipping the anchors, and getting the first free f...

Comments on Save It For A Rainy Day Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Smith
From: moab
Feb 1, 2011

Trundlebum showed me this route and I had to get on it!! It is on a beautiful orange wall not far from the other routes at Moderate Mecca. The climbing is loads of fun, a bit bouldery and powerful down low. Up higher the climbing is fun and easy but a bit steeper. The gear is good up to and after the crux. Make sure your belayer is on point during the crux, a fall here would land you close to the start ledge.
By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Feb 13, 2011

The route got it's name thus:
I had reconned the line. I really wanted to climb it but it was obviously beyond my free climbing ability due to the small size and overhanging nature. I knew the route would be dry during a rain storm.
One day 'Iggy' and I were climbing at Willow Springs area and the weather turned virtually alpine. It started to rain, hail and produce occasional BB snow. While leaving the park I mentioned an aid line that I had my eye on and that we could go do in the rain. Iggy was more than game so we scurried cross town and returned with my aid gear. I lead the thing and Iggy cleaned it on juggs. It was steep enough that the rain line was at least 15' out from the base of the route. It was really a fun day. Even though the climb is not very far off the floor of the wash we lost sight of the wash many times due to thick clouds rolling through.

The original aid line takes the thinner crack to the right.
Joe's F.F.A takes the left hand crack which joins the right hand crack near the top.


GPS:
(as best as I can make from googlemaps)
36.145174,-115.427653
By Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 20, 2011

Awesome lead, Joe!!!!
I enjoyed taking the photos of the FA!!!


Cosmic
By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Feb 22, 2011

Cosmiccragsman:
"I enjoyed taking the photos of the FA!!!"

F.F.A yah mean ;)
By catrina sisco
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 1, 2013

Went out yesterday and got the first free female assent of this route and must say, I'd climb it again in a heart beat. The first half of the route is most definitely a 5.12, but I wouldn't give the second half more than an 11- which makes a great route for anyone wanting to hop on a 12 for their first time. The top of the route is still pretty sandy (which is frustrating when your pumped and so close to the anchors) but its nothing you cant just wipe off or blow on, or say fuck it and quickly clip the anchors. ALSO, its a GREAT route for my fellow shorties out there ;)

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