Joseph Smith doing the FFA of Save it for a rainy ...
From Pending Disaster make your way down to the wash and follow it west towards first pullout for @400m. You will see the obvious flat orange wall and pretty crack @25m up the hill on your right. As you pass the large boulders in the wash head up the hill to the base of the wall. The line takes the most direct route up the face. Both lines to the right and left have gone as well.
The gear is pretty straight forward: med stoppers, small cams( green c3-.75 bd), cams(#1-#3bd) and a few extendable runners. Chain anchors on top. It is possible to TR, but the chains are low. So, you may want to build an anchor to get to them.
Be safe, have fun and enjoy this fun crack climb!! Thanks Trundlebum for sharing this route with me!!
Trundlebum showed me this route and I had to get on it!! It is on a beautiful orange wall not far from the other routes at Moderate Mecca. The climbing is loads of fun, a bit bouldery and powerful down low. Up higher the climbing is fun and easy but a bit steeper. The gear is good up to and after the crux. Make sure your belayer is on point during the crux, a fall here would land you close to the start ledge.
The route got it's name thus: I had reconned the line. I really wanted to climb it but it was obviously beyond my free climbing ability due to the small size and overhanging nature. I knew the route would be dry during a rain storm. One day 'Iggy' and I were climbing at Willow Springs area and the weather turned virtually alpine. It started to rain, hail and produce occasional BB snow. While leaving the park I mentioned an aid line that I had my eye on and that we could go do in the rain. Iggy was more than game so we scurried cross town and returned with my aid gear. I lead the thing and Iggy cleaned it on juggs. It was steep enough that the rain line was at least 15' out from the base of the route. It was really a fun day. Even though the climb is not very far off the floor of the wash we lost sight of the wash many times due to thick clouds rolling through.
The original aid line takes the thinner crack to the right. Joe's F.F.A takes the left hand crack which joins the right hand crack near the top.
GPS: (as best as I can make from googlemaps) 36.145174,-115.427653
Went out yesterday and got the first free female assent of this route and must say, I'd climb it again in a heart beat. The first half of the route is most definitely a 5.12, but I wouldn't give the second half more than an 11- which makes a great route for anyone wanting to hop on a 12 for their first time. The top of the route is still pretty sandy (which is frustrating when your pumped and so close to the anchors) but its nothing you cant just wipe off or blow on, or say fuck it and quickly clip the anchors. ALSO, its a GREAT route for my fellow shorties out there ;)