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Choss-A-Go-Go T 
Savage Dance S 

Savage Dance 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Merrill Bitner '86
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on May 6, 2012

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After the crux

Description 

To say this climb is anything less than sheer ecstasy would be utter blasphemy, so I will not. The Ruckmans give this one 3 stars, who are generally right on, and this one is no exception. I'm not a big fan of writing word for word what the book says about a climb, but look this one up as it is a classic one liner.
Enjoy a few jugs, but mostly solid incut edges with a few crimps and cracks up a slightly overhanging face. The crux wasn't super tricky, but its a pumpy climb for sure.

Location 

This classic starts just left of a big triangular section of lower angle rock and right of a chossy crack section that is, adequately named, "Choss-a-go-go".

Protection 

5 bolts+ 2 bolt anchor protect this one, and if you see the Ruckmans topo, the bolting is not excessive. AKA, fairly spaced out. I like my bolts a bit closer together than this one offers. Bolts 1 and 2 are no problem, but getting to bolt 3 is quite the mental crux. I felt like it was 12 feet or so, and your only 20+ feet up at that point. I would highly suggest not falling here. The crux comes at bolt 4, then bolt 5 is again spaced, and oddly 5 feet below the anchors. If it were me, I'd add one more bolt but I'm a heretic, and maybe that's why the Ruckmans like this one, because it does require some mental tenacity. I have none.


Photos of Savage Dance Slideshow Add Photo
The crux
The crux
Savage Dance heads straight up the main face throu...
Savage Dance heads straight up the main face throu...
Bolts 1-2 are easily spotted. Can you see bolt 3? ...
Bolts 1-2 are easily spotted. Can you see bolt 3? ...
The fall is super clean!
The fall is super clean!

Comments on Savage Dance Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Aug 18, 2012

There is an excellet finger-sized cam placement between the second and third bolts that takes the sting away. Like most of the routes established in this era, they put it up with minimal impact in mind. Hence the room for pro.

I'm not sure on all the details but I heard a great story that when the world cup came the first year this was the one of the hardest routes in the Wasatch. Sport climbing just hadn't fully taken off in AF or other places around here. When all the Euros came in and hiked this it opened some eyes. By the time the World Cup came back the next summer AF was opening up and this area kind of fell out of favor.

It'd be cool to hear more details from those who were around at the time - or to simply set the record straight.