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 ADVANCED
(5) Shakespeare Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As You Like It T 
Azog T 
Measure for Measure S 
Midsummer Night's Scream T 
Much Ado About Nothing T 
Ophelia T 
Othello T 
Puck T 
Sauron T 
Sweet Sorrow S 
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 
Unknown T 
Yost In Space S 

Sauron 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wayne Arrington
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Lee passing the roof on Sauron.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Double cracks immediately left of the bolted route (Measure for Madness, 11d) left of Much Ado About Nothing. Climb to a small ledge then jam, stem, and chimney up to a small roof. Turn this, then climb the steep but well protected headwall to a ledge with anchors.

The anchors are shared with Much Ado About Nothing.

The roof and headwall make this one of the best 5.9's at Smith.

Protection 

A few big cams (up to BD #4) could be useful but not necessary.

Location 

Lower Gorge, East Columns, across the river from Cruel Sister.


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By Bob Graham
Sep 19, 2007

I love this route and think it is one of the best 5.9 routes I have climbed at Smith.
By Burghschred
From: Bend, OR
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with Bob, one of the best 5.9s I've ever climbed. More fun than moonshine dihedral IMHO. More sustained than Azog and Othello. Great place to learn crack climbing for sure.
By the professor
Jun 18, 2013

The route name is "Sauron" (the Dark Lord from Lord of the Rings). Evidently Chuck Buzzard had never read the trilogy and spelled it by sound in his 1980s guide to the Lower Gorge. Watts copied Buzzard's information into his guidebook.

I agree it is a good climb.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We added a new 2-bolt anchor January 2015 with nice fat rings up just above the roof on climber's left. Now the route no longer shares an anchor with Much Ado About Nothing, but instead has its own anchor (shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space). This anchor is much better position for rope-drag/running over the sharp edge (a couple shoulder-length slings are perfect), and the fact that there are two anchors reduces cluster up on the ledge.

It is super easy to walk over 15' on the ledge to the existing anchor above Much Ado.

I enjoyed this route - its definitely pretty physical for 5.9. I don't think I would call it "one of the best 5.9's at Smith," but it is good quality. I think both Othello and Azog on Shakespeare are better 5.9s, but really all three of these are highly worth doing. The Virgin Slayer on Student Wall is also a really high quality trad 5.9.
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