Double cracks immediately left of the bolted route (Measure for Madness, 11d) left of Much Ado About Nothing. Climb to a small ledge then jam, stem, and chimney up to a small roof. Turn this, then climb the steep but well protected headwall to a ledge with anchors.
The anchors are shared with Much Ado About Nothing.
The roof and headwall make this one of the best 5.9's at Smith.
A few big cams (up to BD #4) could be useful but not necessary.
Lower Gorge, East Columns, across the river from Cruel Sister.
|By Bob Graham|
Sep 19, 2007
I love this route and think it is one of the best 5.9 routes I have climbed at Smith.
From: Bend, OR
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I agree with Bob, one of the best 5.9s I've ever climbed. More fun than moonshine dihedral IMHO. More sustained than Azog and Othello. Great place to learn crack climbing for sure.
|By the professor|
Jun 18, 2013
The route name is "Sauron" (the Dark Lord from Lord of the Rings). Evidently Chuck Buzzard had never read the trilogy and spelled it by sound in his 1980s guide to the Lower Gorge. Watts copied Buzzard's information into his guidebook.
I agree it is a good climb.