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Magic Mountain
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Chocolate flakes T 
Community Pillar T 
Dark and Long T 
Edge of the Sun T 
Five and Dime T 
Five Pack T 
Honeycomb Chimney T 
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Masquerade T 
Saucerful of Secrets T 
Small Purchase T 
Texas Longneck T 

Saucerful of Secrets 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unlisted
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: George Perkins on Nov 16, 2009

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Josh on the crux arete pitch of the route. Novembe...

Description 

Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.

The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.

The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 with no rests for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.

Rap the route with 2 ropes.

Location 

This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.

Protection 

Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.


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By Scott Bennett
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Cool climb in an unlikley spot. Lots of cool arete sequences, seperated by good stances. Definitely felt easier than the neighboring crack climb, "Dark and Long".