Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.
The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.
The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 with no rests for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.
Rap the route with 2 ropes.
This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.
Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.
|By Scott Bennett|
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Cool climb in an unlikley spot. Lots of cool arete sequences, seperated by good stances. Definitely felt easier than the neighboring crack climb, "Dark and Long".