Saturday's Folly  5.8+

1,923 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 72 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Gerry Roach & Stan Shepherd, 1958, FFA Pat Ament and Gordy R Submitted By:  George Bell on Aug 2, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Following the first crux move past the hangerless ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;&g>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is an exciting route up the steep west prow of the Third Flatiron. It follows directly up the final rappel on the standard descent, so try to do it when nobody is coming down (mid-week early mornings?). It is also easily toproped from the rap anchor.

Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.

The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.

Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).

There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.

This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.

Protection 

Wires and small cams (to about 2.5").

Photos of Saturday's Folly Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: West side of the Third Flatiron.	An easy hand traverse with good gear leads to a st...	Chuck being unnecessarily fancy as he unclips from...
This move is not that hard, but it's intimidating ...	Steve on Saturday's Folly. Great route! October ...	Brenda starting up the right-facing dihedral with ...
AJ working his way up our after work, evening clim...	Myself working up Saturday's Folly in the fading e...