|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 72'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Gerry Roach & Stan Shepherd, 1958, FFA Pat Ament and Gordy R|
|Page Views: ||2,217|
|Submitted By: ||George Bell on Aug 2, 2001|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Steve on Saturday's Folly. Great route! October ...
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This is an exciting route up the steep west prow of the Third Flatiron. It follows directly up the final rappel on the standard descent, so try to do it when nobody is coming down (mid-week early mornings?). It is also easily toproped from the rap anchor.
Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.
The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.
Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).
There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.
This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.
Wires and small cams (to about 2.5").
AJ working his way up our after work, evening clim...
BETA PHOTO: West side of the Third Flatiron.
An easy hand traverse with good gear leads to a st...
Following the first crux move past the hangerless ...
Chuck being unnecessarily fancy as he unclips from...
Brenda starting up the right-facing dihedral with ...
This move is not that hard, but it's intimidating ...
Myself working up Saturday's Folly in the fading e...
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2001
Matt, sorry for the confusion. The continuation you describe (more or less) is here listed under the route name "West Door" (the final pitch).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
There is a great variation of this route that you can do to spice it up and make it a bit harder. This should be the preferred finish for a solid 5.10 leader, if you ask me.
Follow Saturday's Folly past the face climbing just right of a thin seam- and get to the point where you would go left under an overhang to an easy corner.
DON'T GO LEFT. Set yourself up at the base of the bulging arete and pull diectly through the overhang, continuing up the arete until you reach the fixed belay station up 15 feet above. (eye bolts) This can be reasonably protected from below for the opening moves, just before the overhang (5.10c crux). After a few moves, the climbing lets up.
I called this "The Super Direct." No claims on the FA however. FA= ???
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 27, 2002
You CAN get pro for the first moves. You can get gear below the ledge you start from to keep you from falling all the way, a yellow Alien up and left (a bit shallow) and a pink tricam in a right facing flake just above (takes up a hand hold). These two pieces are not bomber but good enough considering you are toproped at that point.
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 30, 2010
Does anyone know the name or rating of the thin crack? Does it have one?
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2010
The face off the ground between the two Follies goes on TR at about 5.9 or maybe harder if you can't make some key reaches. The holds are surprisingly positive and mostly big. This can lead to the thin crack variation or the variation described by Tony.