Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 
Dog's Head Cutoff T 
East Face (Standard) T 
East Face Left T 
Extra Point T 
Falcon's Fracture T 
Friday's Folly T 
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 
Funny Games T,TR 
Greenman's Crack T,TR 
Holier than Thou S 
Inner Sanctum T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pentaprance T 
Ph.D. Roof T 
Right Of Spring T 
Saturday's Folly T 
Sayonara T,S 
Shoyu State S 
South Chimney T 
Southwest Chimney T 
Super Woo T 
Thin Crack T 
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 
Third World Zone T 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Saturday's Folly 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 72'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gerry Roach & Stan Shepherd, 1958, FFA Pat Ament and Gordy R
Page Views: 2,394
Submitted By: George Bell on Aug 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Steve on Saturday's Folly. Great route! October ...
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is an exciting route up the steep west prow of the Third Flatiron. It follows directly up the final rappel on the standard descent, so try to do it when nobody is coming down (mid-week early mornings?). It is also easily toproped from the rap anchor.

    Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.

    The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.

    Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).

    There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.

    This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.


    Protection 

    Wires and small cams (to about 2.5").



    Photos of Saturday's Folly Slideshow Add Photo
    AJ working his way up our after work, evening climb of Saturday's Folly. September 30, 2011.
    AJ working his way up our after work, evening clim...
    West side of the Third Flatiron.
    BETA PHOTO: West side of the Third Flatiron.
    An easy hand traverse with good gear leads to a stance to the right of Chuck. There's a hard move to reach the finger crack by Chuck's left knee. John Courtney is belaying.
    An easy hand traverse with good gear leads to a st...
    Following the first crux move past the hangerless bolt. The bolt is somewhere right of Chuck's right knee. Bring the smallest stoppper you have whose wire slides through the nut to hook over the bolt. Chuck is climbing a bit left of where I do these moves.
    Following the first crux move past the hangerless ...
    Chuck being unnecessarily fancy as he unclips from the fixed pin. There is good gear by Chuck's right hand.
    Chuck being unnecessarily fancy as he unclips from...
    Brenda starting up the right-facing dihedral with the thin crack in the corner that comprises the last 10 feet of the climb to the eye bolts.
    Brenda starting up the right-facing dihedral with ...
    This move is not that hard, but it's intimidating since it's a long way to the next gear. You make one pretty hard move here then big positive holds lead up and right to the rounded arete.
    This move is not that hard, but it's intimidating ...
    Myself working up Saturday's Folly in the fading evening light. September 30, 2011.
    Myself working up Saturday's Folly in the fading e...
    Comments on Saturday's Folly Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 4, 2001

    Matt, sorry for the confusion. The continuation you describe (more or less) is here listed under the route name "West Door" (the final pitch).

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 5, 2002
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    There is a great variation of this route that you can do to spice it up and make it a bit harder. This should be the preferred finish for a solid 5.10 leader, if you ask me.

    Follow Saturday's Folly past the face climbing just right of a thin seam- and get to the point where you would go left under an overhang to an easy corner.

    DON'T GO LEFT. Set yourself up at the base of the bulging arete and pull diectly through the overhang, continuing up the arete until you reach the fixed belay station up 15 feet above. (eye bolts) This can be reasonably protected from below for the opening moves, just before the overhang (5.10c crux). After a few moves, the climbing lets up.

    I called this "The Super Direct." No claims on the FA however. FA= ???

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 27, 2002

    You CAN get pro for the first moves. You can get gear below the ledge you start from to keep you from falling all the way, a yellow Alien up and left (a bit shallow) and a pink tricam in a right facing flake just above (takes up a hand hold). These two pieces are not bomber but good enough considering you are toproped at that point.

    By cheifitj
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jan 30, 2010

    Does anyone know the name or rating of the thin crack? Does it have one?

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 15, 2010

    The face off the ground between the two Follies goes on TR at about 5.9 or maybe harder if you can't make some key reaches. The holds are surprisingly positive and mostly big. This can lead to the thin crack variation or the variation described by Tony.