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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet FA:  Alec Sharp, 1979 Submitted By:  Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 30, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is on the East Blob, and starts just a couple feet left of the Ticket. This is a wandering route up so-so rock, and I suspect it sees few ascents. Not too surprising...there are better routes a-plenty in the area.

Climb the hand crack system sandwiched between the Ticket and Schizofrantic. Straight forward climbing leads up and left to an awkward mantle crux at the base of the Schizofrantic dihedral. Keep moving left and up, following the main line of weakness. Some interpretation here as to where exactly the original line goes; when in doubt, choose the easiest line. I guess I can't say for sure that I even went the right way, though my partner who had done the route before said I was on route.

Personally, I thought the most redeeming quality of this route is that it can place you within fairly easy reach of the Ticket's chain anchors to set up a TR, or even just a convenient alternative to get off the rock (otherwise, its a scrungy descent off to the east, then down the gully). Its not a bomb, but its not a destination route either.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot.