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Upper East Face
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Saturday Treat 
Schizofrantic 
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Young and the Rackless, The 

Saturday Treat 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1979
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 30, 2004
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Dana on Saturday Treat.
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  • Description 

    This route is on the East Blob, and starts just a couple feet left of the Ticket. This is a wandering route up so-so rock, and I suspect it sees few ascents. Not too surprising...there are better routes a-plenty in the area.

    Climb the hand crack system sandwiched between the Ticket and Schizofrantic. Straight forward climbing leads up and left to an awkward mantle crux at the base of the Schizofrantic dihedral. Keep moving left and up, following the main line of weakness. Some interpretation here as to where exactly the original line goes; when in doubt, choose the easiest line. I guess I can't say for sure that I even went the right way, though my partner who had done the route before said I was on route.

    Personally, I thought the most redeeming quality of this route is that it can place you within fairly easy reach of the Ticket's chain anchors to set up a TR, or even just a convenient alternative to get off the rock (otherwise, its a scrungy descent off to the east, then down the gully). Its not a bomb, but its not a destination route either.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to #2 Camalot.



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