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Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
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Saturday Forever 

Saturday Forever 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Not by me. ????
Season: All year but definitely in the sun during winter months.
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Aug 27, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: "Saturday Forever" -Route takes the obvious steep ...

Description 

This route follows a prominent crack line up the minor buttress on the right of Minor Mass right side. It's more or less where route #1 on page 158 (marked on diagram 34E page 157) of Swartling/Mayer 3rd Edition "Climbers Guide to Devils Lake". The crux hits the climber directly off the ground with steep tricky moves to gain a small first ledge but there is a minor crux pulling through the finger crack section above onto a second ledge. There is a steep and thinly protected short wall to surmount above the second ledge to gain a third huge ledge (watch out on the moves pulling over - all downward sloping) then a final poorly protected final slab wall (or nearly not at all if climber takes the face strictly). Climber can utilize a large crack on he right for gear for this upper section and there is fixed pin as well but it is not a direct route of ascent.


Location 

Minor Mass - very right most buttress that has any routes worth checking out. I think this route is a challenge as a on-sight lead. There are options in the upper sections of the climb for pro if the climber wanders and finds side gear with long runners given to them.


Protection 

Two small wire slots to protect the entrance moves then wires and first knuckle sized cams to protect the finger crack.



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