This climb has become a testpiece for locals. Satisfaction is a thin seam up a shallow dihedral. Other routes are sometimes within reach but are considered "off" to get the standard .11 rating. The somewhat contrived line is usually done with a combination of tenuous stemming and tips locks in pin scars. As the season progresses it tends to get harder as the shoe rubber and grime build-up.
If you eschew the face holds and stick to the crack it increases the grade a few ticks.
small wires and cams (offsets nuts and cams useful)
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I won't dispute the 5.12 grade for a straight-on, holds-only-within-6-inches-of-the-crack send. That said, while it may be technically easier, its far less secure to spread out and stem.
Also, if you reach over to Hard Lieback, it drops it down into the mid 10 range, and I suspect is where the name for that line comes from.
Awesome line on pinscars and tips locks!
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 14, 2013
Way back in the day when crack climbing was the name of the game, Alan Watts trained for hard cracks in a multitude of ways. His self described coup de grace of cheap stunts was climbing Satisfaction one handed by lunging between the fingerlocks!