|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Doug Cosby, Ken McLean 1991|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007|
|Comments on Satisfaction Guaranteed||Add Comment|
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May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One of the best climbs I've been on so far at the New. Powerful, boulder-y start to a broken finger crack (no jamming necessary) to some thin slab, to a really powerful roof move, then just some slabby/slopey stuff at the top.
Clip from one of the decent ledges on the rail below the roof, get back as much energy as possible, pull the roof, get up to the decent jug above it and make sure you don't blow the clip (it would blow). Holds get continuously better as you pull above the bulge after this clip (the diagonal finger cracky thing blows).
If you have the chance, GET ON THIS ROUTE.