|The Satisfaction Wall
After passing the Long Wall, the best of the next group of climbs (the Lichen Wall) is Satisfaction Guaranteed, an obvious face climb leading up to a large roof.
Pull the low roof on positive holds and then trend up the slightly slabby face via technical movement to a rest at two-thirds height. Step left to a corner and rail below the roof. Monkey out the roof and trend up the slightly overhanging headwall to a bolted anchor. Classic!
A dozen draws or so.
|By Gif Zafred|
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 23, 2012
This one doesn't let up and is truly classic. 11a in the Williams guide but it's the hardest 11a I've ever worked for.
|By Matt St. Peter|
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 12, 2012
The trick for the send (don't read if you don't wanna hear it)...was to 1) cut feet when established on the roof 2) get a left heel hook to pull the roof 3) clip the first bolt above the roof then downclimb a move or 2 and put in a sweet horizontal arm bar to rest for the finish. - Thanks for reading (just kidding.)
|By Will Sweeney|
From: Bakersfield, California
Jun 5, 2013
Absolutely perfect route. Has it all. Top is deceptively pumpy and requires a little searching to find the holds. Stout 11a/b but not 11c if you're at all used to climbing steep rock.
From: Salisbury, NC
Jul 29, 2013
The guide said 11a... pumpiest 11a onsite ever. Enjoyable climbing throughout, has a little bit for everyone. Dont think it completely lets up after the roof though!
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Not to be a sandbagger, but holy hell at the grade inflation... anyone who thinks this is 11c hasn't climbed many 5.11- routes at the New yet. 5.11a is fair, especially compared to other regional 11a benchmarks such as Legacy, Mellifluous, etc.
|By S. Neoh|
Aug 3, 2013
Hmm, It must have been a bad day for me when I tried and failed on this one; thought it is harder than No Way Jose and comparable to the two short steep .11 routes on DC Mem Boulder. Oh well.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Aug 13, 2013
Yeah i thought this one was slightly harder than Legacy, albeit shorter. I believe the .11c rating is leftover from Cater's guide. Could be wrong, haven't looked at that gem in a while.
Jun 26, 2014
Lives up to the name.
|By Brandy Walters|
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wasn't prepared for the slab, but I meandered to find good holds/crimps. Watch the rope at the roof. I was expecting so sail to the top, but slopey chickenheads aren't the most confidence building thing to find when you're completely pumped. The holds up there aren't chalked - it gets washed by the rain - so you have to search out the good ones and find good body positions to make them work.