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The Satisfaction Wall
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Bad Hair Day T 
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No Refund S 
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Two Finger Limit S 
Useless Beauty S 

Satisfaction Guaranteed 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 5,425
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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Mike on Satisfaction Guaranteed

Description 

After passing the Long Wall, the best of the next group of climbs (the Lichen Wall) is Satisfaction Guaranteed, an obvious face climb leading up to a large roof.

Pull the low roof on positive holds and then trend up the slightly slabby face via technical movement to a rest at two-thirds height. Step left to a corner and rail below the roof. Monkey out the roof and trend up the slightly overhanging headwall to a bolted anchor. Classic!

Protection 

A dozen draws or so.


Photos of Satisfaction Guaranteed Slideshow Add Photo
The start
The start
The roof
The roof

Comments on Satisfaction Guaranteed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 23, 2012

This one doesn't let up and is truly classic. 11a in the Williams guide but it's the hardest 11a I've ever worked for.
By Matt St. Peter
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 12, 2012

The trick for the send (don't read if you don't wanna hear it)...was to 1) cut feet when established on the roof 2) get a left heel hook to pull the roof 3) clip the first bolt above the roof then downclimb a move or 2 and put in a sweet horizontal arm bar to rest for the finish. - Thanks for reading (just kidding.)
By Will Sweeney
From: Zachariah, Kentucky
Jun 5, 2013

Absolutely perfect route. Has it all. Top is deceptively pumpy and requires a little searching to find the holds. Stout 11a/b but not 11c if you're at all used to climbing steep rock.
By asrollin
From: Salisbury, NC
Jul 29, 2013

The guide said 11a... pumpiest 11a onsite ever. Enjoyable climbing throughout, has a little bit for everyone. Dont think it completely lets up after the roof though!
By BrianWS
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Not to be a sandbagger, but holy hell at the grade inflation... anyone who thinks this is 11c hasn't climbed many 5.11- routes at the New yet. 5.11a is fair, especially compared to other regional 11a benchmarks such as Legacy, Mellifluous, etc.
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2013

Hmm, It must have been a bad day for me when I tried and failed on this one; thought it is harder than No Way Jose and comparable to the two short steep .11 routes on DC Mem Boulder. Oh well.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Aug 13, 2013

Yeah i thought this one was slightly harder than Legacy, albeit shorter. I believe the .11c rating is leftover from Cater's guide. Could be wrong, haven't looked at that gem in a while.
By Sharkbarf
Jun 26, 2014

Lives up to the name.
By Brandy Walters
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wasn't prepared for the slab, but I meandered to find good holds/crimps. Watch the rope at the roof. I was expecting so sail to the top, but slopey chickenheads aren't the most confidence building thing to find when you're completely pumped. The holds up there aren't chalked - it gets washed by the rain - so you have to search out the good ones and find good body positions to make them work.
By Zotto
From: Hampton, Virginia
Sep 30, 2014

Handjam rest right after pulling the roof