Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Exiles in Babylon 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ramsey/muff/folts 80's
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: john strand on Apr 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A good companion to Thresher. Sustained face-y slab .


Location 

Just left of Thresher


Protection 

bolt?, a pin and some wires up top, tree anchor



Comments on Exiles in Babylon Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013

Handren places it left of Thresher. He gives the FA as Brad White and Barbara Knight, which makes sense with the name. What do you think, John, the same route you are describing?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 13, 2013

I really don't remember. I know the team listed did a decent 5.10 in this area, I don't remember left or rright of Thresher, but I did the second ascent way bitd

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013

I checked Handren's guide again. He has this route as Exiles in Babylon 10a with Claude Muff, Blair Folts and Louis Dandurand '86 as the FA party. It is indeed left of Thresher (he switchrd the order of routes when he got over to this part of the slab). Knight in White Satin is to the right of Thresher

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 14, 2013

I had to get out a guide as well. I have not done Brad's line, but the others are worth doing when clean.
Claude's line has a pin and some wires up top

By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2013

Correct; L-R it goes Exiles, Thresher, and then Knights. The first two are fun (when clean) and you can usually have them all to yourself. It would probably take an hour or two with a wire brush on a broom handle to put these back on the radar as a worthwhile side trip to escape the mobs at the North End Slabs (aka "the Practice Aid Slabs," anyone else remember calling it that?

By jim.dangle
Jan 27, 2013

I think there still may be some confusion about this climb.

Although the name and placement are correct, I don't remember this having 4 bolts. I looked at this part of the cliff in last summer (2012) and my impression of this was that it looked pretty unappealing. I think there is a bolt to pin to a thin seam as Webster and Handren also suggest.

Knights in White Satin, on the other side of the Thresher, is currently buried under moss has four bolts and looks by far the better climb.

But this is just from looking up.

Jim