|Wailing Sax Wall
This is a rather forgettable crack, but with adequate protection and decent rock.
This climb is near the right end of the Wailing Sax wall. There is a left-facing corner; climb an intermittent crack system to its right.
|By Russ Walling|
Dec 31, 2012
It is such a chossy wonderland over in this area of the crag, I'm not even sure I was on this route... but if I was...
The start seems to be climbers left from what is the down climb (a gully with a giant chockstone in the top of it) about 20 or 30 feet. If you start any further right, it will be a mostly very low angle slab with some plates and knobs on it and probably goes at 5.1C... If you start any further left, it is almost looking hard and sort of blank. So start in the middle of this area on good holds and head on up. There is pro, but you don't really need it... then there is a big flake/horn looking thing you can sling before moving slightly right to continue on up. At some point you will be required to make an actual move on a slab, pretty far above any pro. You will have a small slot that you can either pro or use as a hand hold. I chose pro, a small Camalot that I did not think would hold any sort of a fall. Do the one move and continue up on to the summit area to belay. I put in a couple small 3/4" cams in a flake and belayed out right in the downclimb chimney. Mostly a pretty crappy route, but you are here anyway, and it is run out, so there is some scare points to be had.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 31, 2012
Russ is more generous than I. Barely worth doing unless you're looking for mileage or hoping to hit the 1,000 unique routes in JTree status.