Satan's Toy  5.11a R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Paul Glover, Kirk Speers New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Paul Glover on May 28, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the short wild overhang to the right to the Devil's Arch cave about 80m. Climb easy ground (5.4) to the beginning of a left traversing crack on the lower right side of the overhang. Put in a 3.5 Camalot with an extended runner. Traverse up and left (5.10+) placing shallow cams (a 3 Camalot to get started, then medium cams) and beware a massive chopper block you must straddle and climb over. Then head up to the base of the roof. Place a small cam (I put in a yellow Alien) and head up right towards the obvious giant bucket and top out. Also possible to head left on easy ground (5.8) and skip the roof but who would want to do that?

Protection 

Cams to #3.5 Camalot. many choices for anchor building on top