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Satanic Verses 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1993)
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: ---- on Nov 5, 2011
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Description 

The movement on "Satanic Verses" might just be good enough that its worth ignoring the copious amount of glue. Judging from the plethora of reinforced crimps, Doug Reed must have been really desperate to bolt a route that eclipsed the 13- grade. The result was a technical power endurance masterpiece.

Begin with some easy climbing to a good rest below a roof. Once fully prepared grab some crimps, swing your feet and start to funk your way up the steep dihedral. Long reaches between tiny glued on crimps are made possible with some ridiculous drop knees. At the end of the dihedral battle out the roof and pull on to a spectacular arete. A minor shake prepares you for the technical crux.

The arete crux is like no other arete move I have ever done, making it hard to describe, so you'll just have to experience it for yourself. If given a boulder grade it would be around V7. Once through the crux cop another rest and then wobble your way up through four more bolts of solid 5.12 arete climbing. The climbing is tenuous with few foot holds and flawless stone (no glue on the arete).

This route is a precious commodity at the NRG. It is one of the few routes that has a grueling power endurance section. Originally the upper arete was part of a Porter Jarrard link up that started on "Jesus and Tequila." Reed added the direct dihedral start.


Location 

Located just to the left of the tiger striped wall of "Quinsana Plus."


Protection 

11 bolts + anchor



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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Mar 19, 2013

Fred's description of this climb is the best I have read of any route at the New on Mountain Project. Well done!