Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Turtle Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desert Shield S 
Integrity S 
Jesus Lives S 
Kippy Korner T 
Lieback and Lingerie T 
Satanic Mechanic S 
Sexy Sadye T 
Wind Burn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Satanic Mechanic 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Roy McClenahan & Doug McDonald, February 1988
Page Views: 1,603
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jeff Gicklhorn leading Satanic Mechanic.

Description 

This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of Desert Shield. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).

Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.


Protection 

Bolts to sport anchor. Draws are all you need. To set a TR, climb up and left to above anchors (belay probably needed).



Photos of Satanic Mechanic Slideshow Add Photo
Satanic Mechanic.  Photo credit unknown
Satanic Mechanic. Photo credit unknown
Mid crux on Satanic Mechanic.  It gets hard a little before this and stays hard until one move before the anchors.  Great climb.
Mid crux on Satanic Mechanic. It gets hard a litt...
Comments on Satanic Mechanic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 27, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route on mostly great rock. We set it up as a TR, but plenty leadable. As said, easier climbing leads to a nice, asthetic series of moves 3/4 the way up with a tough exit. In the afternoon shade, the route is a nice escape from the sun.

By Josh Beck
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Seeing as this route recently celebrated its twentieth anniversary, perhaps it should be gifted with some new hardware.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 30, 2012

This route presents a dilemma: try to clip mid crux move, or pull through then clip. The fall isn't the best if you don't clip, with a risk of hitting the lower angle stuff below, but if you aren't tall it's very hard (impossible for me) to clip before committing. Once you've pulled the move and have the bolt clipped, a couple more hard moves on thin edges lead to easier climbing to the anchor. In any case, have an aware belayer.