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 ADVANCED
The Umbrella Boulder
Select Route:
Extendo Reacho 
Satan on a Halfshell 
Satan's Sister Sally 
Sick Man Says "Barf" 
Umbrella Traverse Arete 
Umbrella Traverse, The 

Satan on a Halfshell 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: John Sherman
Page Views: 2,338
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Dec 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Timmy trying the hard route... Satan on a Halfshel...

Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A New England classic. Head straight up and out the overhang. Many different sequences will get you most of the way up the boulder, but the crux for most will be the last couple moves, when you can no longer keep your feet down low.

Apparently this was originally a v8 when Sherman sent it, using a blowtorch to dry the holds. The upper jug exfoliated, leaving the problem in its current state. Dave Graham got the first re-ascent.

Protection 

Crashpads


Photos of Satan on a Halfshell Slideshow Add Photo
The horizontal chalk line is The Umbrella Trverse....
The horizontal chalk line is The Umbrella Trverse....

Comments on Satan on a Halfshell Add Comment
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By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Aug 22, 2008
rating: V9 7C

As I understand it, Satan on a Half Shell starts about in the middle of the boulder and follows a vertical rail feature up until you traverse a few moves left, set up on crimps, and chuck for the broken hold.

Satan's Sister Sally starts further left and moves straight into the same dyno using a right hand crimp and left hand slot.
By Ethan Neff
Sep 26, 2009

One of my all time favorites!! Watch out for a puddle that forms right above the top out. If it's full, water will leech down a crack and onto the upper crux hold. I've had to bail out the puddle a couple of times with a piece of bark. Good landing, great line!
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Feb 22, 2010
rating: V9 7C

I hate to be that guy, but I think this is easier than V10. Both versions feel about the same (though Satan's Sister Sally may be a touch easier), but neither feels as hard as I expect a V10 to feel.
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 22, 2010

It seems odd to me to have two different names for the different starts when they get you to the same crux, and at virtually the same difficulty at that. I think you're right about the names though.
By J Meagher
Mar 6, 2013

Found this on youtube; not the greatest video,but it shows the moves pretty well
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Mar 7, 2013
rating: V9 7C

The beta in that vid is for CRAZY STRONG MOFOS! Normal people do at least two moves before hitting the high right crimp he grabs first.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 7, 2013

Yeah the beta in the video is incredible. Dude must be so strong! Also worth noting that this is actually the Satan's Sister Sally V10 not Satan on a Halfshell...
By Aaron nietzel
Apr 23, 2014

Jake! Although it is not visible or recommended, no pads were used during this assent. It was too cold for sport climbing on this day. Needless to say guy need to blow off some steam!