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Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."

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Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib T 

Sass di Stria "Hexenstein." 


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Elevation: 8,125'
Page Views: 1,352
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jan 14, 2012
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View from the South Rib of the Hexenstein.

Amazin...

Description 

Southern exposure allows early seasonal access. This is a popular area since many short single-pitch Sport Routes exist in addition to summit routes. The best known climb is the Colbertaldo/Pezzotti Route at UIAA IV+ (5.5/5.6).

There is very good rock, in general, and the routes have been cleaned up over the years from any major loose choss.


Getting There 

From the top of the Falzerego pass, about a mile along the highway towards Valparola Pass. There is a very large boulder left of the road shoulder as a marker when to leave for a climber's path leading to the most popular line, the South Arete, or rib.


Climbing Season


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sass di Stria "Hexenstein.":
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 660'   
Browse More Classics in Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."

Featured Route For Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
Final pitch on the Sass de Stria's Spigolo Sud

Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
A great route, well worn from many ascents, popular, climbs quickly, relatively short approach, with a great historical descent through old WWI trenches. Can be crowded. Sometimes very crowded.The route starts on the left side of an open trough (on the left side of the little pinnacle), just right of the south rib. Climb up and left, staying just right of the ridge crest for the first pitch (~25m) and the second pitch (~40m).The third pitch climbs up to the crest of the rib, then, jogs right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Sass di Stria "Hexenstein." Slideshow Add Photo
Descent from Hexenstein.
Descent from Hexenstein.
Hexenstein from slopes above the Falzarego Pass. Under maximum magnification, climbers may be seen on the large terrace.
Hexenstein from slopes above the Falzarego Pass. U...
Descent down ladders and through old WWI tranches from the summit of the Hexenstein
Descent down ladders and through old WWI tranches ...
Hexenstein from the pass
Hexenstein from the pass
Summit of the Sass de Stria
Summit of the Sass de Stria
Approach trail for Hexenstein, leaving from the Fortress Museum on the Cortina side of Valparola pass.
Approach trail for Hexenstein, leaving from the Fo...
The Hexenstein from Falzarego Pass.
The Hexenstein from Falzarego Pass.
Entrance to the Golginger Stollen, a World War One military tunnel through the Hexenstein; this is an interesting alternate approach to the Colbertaldo route. Flashlights/headlamps essential!
Entrance to the Golginger Stollen, a World War One...
Comments on Sass di Stria "Hexenstein." Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 19, 2013

Unbeknownst to me earlier, there's an alternative approach to the Colbertaldo route on the arÍte: a Great War (W.W. I) military tunnel which burrows through the mountain and exits near the start!