Sasquatch 5.9+
| 10,208 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Lynn Wheeler, Dan Hall, Jim Irvine, 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Mike Kempt on Sep 27, 2001 |
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Tom needs to wear this helmet on the bus too.
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner. The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek. Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description High quality single pitch trad line. Fun moves on excellent rock. Thin crack crux above small roof protects well.
Protection #3 Camalot at start, then TCU's or stoppers. A few long runners helpful. Chains at top for anchor.
Location The start is found on a ledge to the right of Pentapitch and just above the level of the top of the first pitch belay of Pentapitch. The easiest way to get there is to climb the first pitch of Pentapitch and go right of the tree and up to the ledge rather than left of the tree.
Trinity found the crack to be a bit rattley for he...
| Jason Billings behind the camera.
| Hanging around waiting for the roof to come to him...
| Maura Hahnenberger coming up Sasquatch.
| glen in his tennis shoes bout to pull the roof.
| looking up the sweet sweet crack
| Mike White on the tips section of [[S...
| Mike White through the crux and head...
| Not as steep as people say
| local badass on sasquatch
| John heading through the roof!
| Melissa at the start of Sasquatch
| Dragan the Sasquatch slayer!
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 19, 2002
| it is a great line i love hitting it at least 4or5 times a season |
By jeff newsom Oct 30, 2003
| Howdy Folks- Nice page! I had a chance to climb this route with Lynn Wheeler shortly after the first ascent. I did many climbs with Lynn back in those days. Great to see Little CottonWood still receiving so much attention. Wheeler was one of a kind. Cheers!---Jeff Newsom |
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Park City, UT May 6, 2004
| Great fun. |
By kBobby From: Spokane, WA Dec 1, 2004 rating: 5.9
| This is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere! This is an easier lead than the Green Adjective (better pro); if you've done the Green A, you gotta do this one. Mike suggests bringing a #3 camalot for the start. The start is a traversing undercling. It can be protected with either a #3 or a #2. However, it isn't a very good spot to stop and place a piece. If you just traverse past it, you will get to a great spot to plug in a #0.75. Above, you won't need anything bigger (I sometimes put a #1 in just below the roof), and you can leave the heavier stuff at home. I would, however, recommend carring small cams in the blue and green alien range. If you link this up with the top of Pentapitch, you won't need the big stuff up there either. |
By vincent pierce May 9, 2005 rating: 5.9+
| Great climb that protects really well! One foot in the thin crack and one foot smearing the smooth lcc granite. Trust it! |
By Nathan Fisher Aug 2, 2005 rating: 5.9
| This crack eats up those nuts. Cams are nice, but live a little. |
By Erik Gillis Nov 11, 2005 rating: 5.9
| I loved this climb!! I lead it and found it hard to make nut placements though. I thought that the Green A was easier, as far as protecting, but that is just me. All in all a wonderful climb. |
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Aug 28, 2006 rating: 5.9
| This is a great line for aspiring 5.9 leaders. There are ample opportunities to place gear wether cams or nuts. It takes both equally well. Just get up on it. Definately a classic hands/fingers climb!! |
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Apr 14, 2007
| What a great pitch. Top-roped it a bunch today. The crux is very distinct and ticklish, just a couple/few moves using just tips in the cracks and feet that aren't substantial. I can't wait to go back and do it again. --Nate |
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 17, 2007 rating: 5.9
| what a wasatch gem... |
By oliver Jun 23, 2007
| That is one of the best climbs I have ever done. just a good enjoyable crack with a little varation here and there. |
By Stymingersfink May 7, 2008
| For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear! |
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 27, 2008 rating: 5.9
| One of my favorite routes in LCC. I thought that this was a bit easier than the coffin and Green-A. Maybe that's cause it sewed up and the holds were all there, except maybe that "tips" section which caused me to second guess and forfeit the onsight :( Great for beginning 5.9 trad leader! |
By Casey Jenen Jul 23, 2008 rating: 5.9
| This is on my list for best climbs in LCC, I think it is an awesome lead for new 5.9 climbers because protection is good. This is just a great route should not miss this one. |
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Jul 23, 2008 rating: 5.9+
| another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it. |
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Sep 14, 2008 rating: 5.9-
| Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one. |
By grk10vq Administrator Sep 15, 2008
| the rating is fair, you're just incredibly strong. take your guns to the green A and do gordon's hangover. that ones soft for the grade as well. don't forget to spray, i mean, tell us all about it. |
By Tea Oct 8, 2008
| What's with the sloppy gloop around the 3! bolts and the longshoreman's shipping chain? Holy anchor your tugboat to that bad-boy! (also...there is an active bee's nest in the tree trunk at the lower anchor) |
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Mar 9, 2009 rating: 5.9
| I would like to contribute to the rating argument. Just to stir the waters...But really, If bushwack crack is 5.8 how can this climb be 5.9+? Must be the grease factor on bushwack that makes it feel harder than sasquatch.. |
By grk10vq Administrator Mar 9, 2009
| i'd like to contribute how important, accurate, and final, ratings are . . . always. |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Aug 21, 2009 rating: 5.9+
| Did this again recently. Solid 5.9b. |
By Brian G May 21, 2010 rating: 5.9
| One of the best (for my) finger(s) cracks in the canyon. I love this line and always enjoy it. Super good gear the whole way! |
By Michael Buchanan Aug 17, 2010 rating: 5.9
| Awesome route. Easier and less sustained then the Green A, but the ambiance of the trees makes you feel like you are in a better place. Love this climb! |
By Josh Cameron Jul 4, 2011
| Once you get above the roof, the climbing is simply awesome and rivals any 5.9 finger crack in Yosemite. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Aug 1, 2011
| ^^^ That's what I said yesterday - its Yosemite in the Wasatch! So superb!!! Leaving the crack right below the top for the slab is a nice way to finish. |
By sean roberds From: sandy,ut Apr 24, 2012
| A nice fun variation is pulling off to the right to the bolts after th crux. makes for some great fun. |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Apr 25, 2012 rating: 5.9+
| Sean, that would be Littlefoot, fun touchy S side slab. |
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