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Sasquatch 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lynn Wheeler, Dan Hall, Jim Irvine, 1977
Page Views: 14,547
Submitted By: Mike Kempt on Sep 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (249)
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Mike White on the tips section of Sasquatch. What'...

Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

High quality single pitch trad line. Fun moves on excellent rock. Thin crack crux above small roof protects well.

Protection 

#3 Camalot at start, then TCU's or stoppers. A few long runners helpful. Chains at top for anchor.

Location 

The start is found on a ledge to the right of Pentapitch and just above the level of the top of the first pitch belay of Pentapitch.

The easiest way to get there is to climb the first pitch of Pentapitch and go right of the tree and up to the ledge rather than left of the tree.


Photos of Sasquatch Slideshow Add Photo
Dragan the Sasquatch slayer!
Dragan the Sasquatch slayer!
Jason Billings behind the camera.
Jason Billings behind the camera.
glen in his tennis shoes bout to pull the roof.
glen in his tennis shoes bout to pull the roof.
Trinity found the crack to be a bit rattley for he...
Trinity found the crack to be a bit rattley for he...
Hanging around waiting for the roof to come to him...
Hanging around waiting for the roof to come to him...
Tom needs to wear this helmet on the bus too.
Tom needs to wear this helmet on the bus too.
looking up the sweet sweet crack
looking up the sweet sweet crack
Mike White  through the crux and heading home.
Mike White through the crux and heading home.
Melissa at the start of Sasquatch
Melissa at the start of Sasquatch
Not as steep as people say
Not as steep as people say
John heading through the roof!
John heading through the roof!
local badass on sasquatch
local badass on sasquatch
Maura Hahnenberger coming up Sasquatch.
Maura Hahnenberger coming up Sasquatch.

Comments on Sasquatch Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 23, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 19, 2002

it is a great line i love hitting it at least 4or5 times a season
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 21, 2003

The Best ***
By jeff newsom
Oct 30, 2003

Howdy Folks- Nice page! I had a chance to climb this route with Lynn Wheeler shortly after the first ascent. I did many climbs with Lynn back in those days. Great to see Little CottonWood still receiving so much attention. Wheeler was one of a kind. Cheers!---Jeff Newsom
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 6, 2004

Great fun.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere!

This is an easier lead than the Green Adjective (better pro); if you've done the Green A, you gotta do this one.

Mike suggests bringing a #3 camalot for the start. The start is a traversing undercling. It can be protected with either a #3 or a #2. However, it isn't a very good spot to stop and place a piece. If you just traverse past it, you will get to a great spot to plug in a #0.75. Above, you won't need anything bigger (I sometimes put a #1 in just below the roof), and you can leave the heavier stuff at home.

I would, however, recommend carring small cams in the blue and green alien range.

If you link this up with the top of Pentapitch, you won't need the big stuff up there either.
By vincent pierce
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb that protects really well! One foot in the thin crack and one foot smearing the smooth lcc granite. Trust it!
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This crack eats up those nuts. Cams are nice, but live a little.
By Erik Gillis
Nov 11, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I loved this climb!! I lead it and found it hard to make nut placements though. I thought that the Green A was easier, as far as protecting, but that is just me. All in all a wonderful climb.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Aug 28, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great line for aspiring 5.9 leaders. There are ample opportunities to place gear wether cams or nuts. It takes both equally well. Just get up on it. Definately a classic hands/fingers climb!!
By Nathan Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 14, 2007

What a great pitch. Top-roped it a bunch today. The crux is very distinct and ticklish, just a couple/few moves using just tips in the cracks and feet that aren't substantial. I can't wait to go back and do it again.
--Nate
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

what a wasatch gem...
By oliver
Jun 23, 2007

That is one of the best climbs I have ever done. just a good enjoyable crack with a little varation here and there.
By Stymingersfink
May 7, 2008

For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear!
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of my favorite routes in LCC. I thought that this was a bit easier than the coffin and Green-A. Maybe that's cause it sewed up and the holds were all there, except maybe that "tips" section which caused me to second guess and forfeit the onsight :( Great for beginning 5.9 trad leader!
By Casey Jenen
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is on my list for best climbs in LCC, I think it is an awesome lead for new 5.9 climbers because protection is good. This is just a great route should not miss this one.
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 15, 2008

the rating is fair, you're just incredibly strong. take your guns to the green A and do gordon's hangover. that ones soft for the grade as well. don't forget to spray, i mean, tell us all about it.
By Tea
Oct 8, 2008

What's with the sloppy gloop around the 3! bolts and the longshoreman's shipping chain? Holy anchor your tugboat to that bad-boy! (also...there is an active bee's nest in the tree trunk at the lower anchor)
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I would like to contribute to the rating argument. Just to stir the waters...But really, If bushwack crack is 5.8 how can this climb be 5.9+? Must be the grease factor on bushwack that makes it feel harder than sasquatch..
By grk10vq
Administrator
Mar 9, 2009

i'd like to contribute how important, accurate, and final, ratings are . . . always.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did this again recently. Solid 5.9b.
By Brian G
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of the best (for my) finger(s) cracks in the canyon. I love this line and always enjoy it. Super good gear the whole way!
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome route. Easier and less sustained then the Green A, but the ambiance of the trees makes you feel like you are in a better place. Love this climb!
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011

Once you get above the roof, the climbing is simply awesome and rivals any 5.9 finger crack in Yosemite.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 1, 2011

^^^ That's what I said yesterday - its Yosemite in the Wasatch! So superb!!! Leaving the crack right below the top for the slab is a nice way to finish.
By sean roberds
From: sandy,ut
Apr 24, 2012

A nice fun variation is pulling off to the right to the bolts after th crux. makes for some great fun.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sean, that would be Littlefoot, fun touchy S side slab.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One of those climbs that will vary in difficulty wildly depending on finger size. I have monster fingers so it was a desperate Green A style smearfest on greasy edges. The climb probably feels 5.8 or easier for people with small fingers.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 20, 2013

One of the best cracks in Little Cottonwood. I think it's harder than Green A, but whatever. Doesn't change the quality!
By klane
Jul 29, 2013

Amazing finger crack--perfect for lady fingers!!
By S.Cohen
Sep 23, 2014

Just did this one again today and again, it was all time. Some thin fingers and some bomber fingers. The slabby face provides an excellent ending to this classic LCC crack.