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Below The Old New Place
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Sardonic Smile S 
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Sardonic Smile 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Riepe, 8/89
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This route would be pretty good if it weren't so dirty. Unfortunately, it's currently covered in a thick film of mud that really detracts from the climbing experience.

If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.


Location 

At the right end of BTONP, this route climbs the center of a wide light-gray wall.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor shared with Color of My Potion. May want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a ledge fall.



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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.

By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Oct 28, 2012

I'd like to second George's comment; this description is not fair. This is an excellent route and there isn't any mud on it. The first two clips might get your attention.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This climb was dirty today.