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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Optimator 
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Sardikar 
Season of the Worm, The 
Soul Fire 
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Unsorted Routes:

Sardikar 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005
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Armando Fimbrez on lead, playing some Zepplin tune...

Description 

This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.


Protection 

2-3 of everything from .5" to 3.5"



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By Rob Dillon
Jun 8, 2006

The start of this one had sort of an 'Eldo' feel to it: intermittent pro, tricky stemming, that sort of thing. I liked it.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure.

By D-Storm
May 3, 2010

Rope beta: With about 12 feet trimmed off of a 70-meter rope, and after cleaning all the gear and with the knot at the Grigri, I was able to swing onto the top of a boulder to the right of the climb. I would agree that this route has a serious nature and would not be a good choice for someone just starting to lead 10+/11-. In addition to the tricky gear, there is a long section of #2 Camalots where there is lensing that makes them a tad suspect the wall is hollow. Fun climb, though, and worth doing at least once if you've done everything else there.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

funky climbing at the start, with careful gear and not excellent rock. kind of out of character for the creek. upper part is real fun.

By 303scott
Mar 12, 2012

Don't miss this route! Great climbing, but, as stated above, a bit funky/scary off the deck. Before pulling the hard moves 25 feet up you can get two small pieces in a wedged chockstone of questionable quality, or it looks like it would take a bomber #5 Camalot. If the chockstone pieces blow, you deck. After that, it's 95 feet of glorious climbing.