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Bako National Park 
Gunung Buros: White Magic Wall 
Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves 

Sarawak 


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Elevation: 2,377'
Lat, Long: 1.6697, 110.083 Map
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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Glen Charnoski on Nov 1, 2011

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Looking out of Fairy Cave, location of awesome lim...

Description 

The Malaysian state of Sarawak is the lesser known of the two Malaysian States in Borneo (the other being Sabah). Sarawak is an off-the-beaten-track destination. While it lacks the "world class" attractions of Sabah (eg. coral reefs and a 4000m peak), it offers the climber, in our case, over 30 steep limestone sport routes (only 30 minutes from the lovely town of Kuching) nested in karst hills covered in rainforest amongst laidback tribal villages. Sarawak also offers the adventure hiker/climber 2000m rugged and remote peaks in Mulu National Park (also Batu Lawi and Gunung Murud), in stark contrast to seaside bouldering at Bako National Park. Sarawak offers it all for those jaded climbers who've been there/done that, willing to make the extra effort to get there from nearby over-visited Thailand.


Getting There 

There are cheap flights every few hours from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Kuching. You can book cheap flights thru Air Asia's website, but you must book in advance for the cheapest flights. If not, Malaysian Airlines might be a more economical alternative, as they don't charge for luggage and snacks. Flights are also direct from Singapore. If coming from Hong Kong (via Sabah), there are numerous cheap flights with Air Asia to Kuching thru Kota Kinabalu.

WARNING: The rainy season is late October thru March, and seas are usually rough and Bako National Park is inacessable some of the time. However, all the climbing areas around Fairy Cave stay dry. Above the climbs(on Gunung Sireh) are overhanging cliffs and vegetation, and protect the steep limestone climbing walls below, which remain dry through even intense downpours.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sarawak:
Kapur Chimney   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves : Batman Wall
The Incredible Roof   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves : Zoo Wall
If I Could Just Reach My Utility Belt   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves : Batman Wall
Browse More Classics in Sarawak

Featured Route For Sarawak
Overview of the climb and beginning boulder, at base.

The Incredible Roof 5.11a  International : Asia : ... : Zoo Wall
From a good ledge behind the large boulder, stand on the boulder, clip the bolt, and engage the steep rock on commiting holds to gain a ledge 8' up. From there angle left up a ramp. Climb up the steepening wall on a featured column to the big ledge/cave before the spectacular finish and crux - the roof. After resting, reach out right up and over the large roof on jugs. Spectacular position!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International