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 ADVANCED
Moore Cutoff Road
Select Route:
Choss Cross, The T 
Sara's Spire T 
Sid and Charley T 

Sara's Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: A. Gram, Glime: March 07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 859
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Mar 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The route follows the obvious crack systems.

Description 

This is a neat formation. It is a little bit dirty, but the rock is decent.

Start from the north side. Follow a crack system to the first chimney/offwidth (this is the R section unless you have really big cams.) Move left to the next chimney and either free climb past bolts, or aid C0 through this chimney. Traverse right to a really nice finger/small hands crack that leads to the top. Aid this crack at C1 or go for the free ascent.

Descent: I believe a 60 meter rope would work, but trail a second rope to be safe.


Location 

There are two ways to get to it.

1) I-70, take exit 108 and head north along the dirt road (high clearance vehicle recommended.) You will see the spire out on your left, you will come to a good graded gravel road, take a left, drive a mile or so to the butte, turn left, park and walk 20 minutes to the spire.

2) I-70, get off on exit 116, travel northwest on this graded gravel road (called Moore Rd.) Drive a few miles until you see the butte and spire on your left. Turn left to park on the butte, park, and walk 20 minutes to the spire.


Protection 

For the lower section, the biggest cams you can find! For the middle section, clip three bolts. For the upper section, blue aliens to number three camalot, with a lot of .5 and .75 camalot sizes.



Photos of Sara's Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Looking southeast from Moore Rd.  Sara's Spire is the obvious spire on the left edge of the butte.
BETA PHOTO: Looking southeast from Moore Rd. Sara's Spire is ...
It is cleaner now, but here are the two chimneys.  The first one is unprotectable without big cams or good offwidth/chimney skills.
BETA PHOTO: It is cleaner now, but here are the two chimneys. ...
These help...
BETA PHOTO: These help...
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