|808 page views|
This is a neat formation. It is a little bit dirty, but the rock is decent.
Start from the north side. Follow a crack system to the first chimney/offwidth (this is the R section unless you have really big cams.) Move left to the next chimney and either free climb past bolts, or aid C0 through this chimney. Traverse right to a really nice finger/small hands crack that leads to the top. Aid this crack at C1 or go for the free ascent.
Descent: I believe a 60 meter rope would work, but trail a second rope to be safe.
This spire is in the 'greater' Torres de Polvo region. There are two ways to get to it.
1) I-70, take exit 108 and head north along the dirt road (high clearance vehicle recommended.) You will see the spire out on your left, you will come to a good graded gravel road, take a left, drive a mile or so to the butte, turn left, park and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
2) I-70, get off on exit 116, travel northwest on this graded gravel road (called Moore Rd.) Drive a few miles until you see the butte and spire on your left. Turn left to park on the butte, park, and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
For the lower section, the biggest cams you can find! For the middle section, clip three bolts. For the upper section, blue aliens to number three camalot, with a lot of .5 and .75 camalot sizes.
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the obvious crack systems.
BETA PHOTO: It is cleaner now, but here are the two chimneys. ...
BETA PHOTO: These help...