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Upper Devil's Playground
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbed Wire T 
Crack to Nowhere T 
Crackpod T 
Day of Wrath T 
Formicae S 
Gut Bomb 
Meat Milkshake 
New Shoes T 
Panhandle , The T 
Sarah Palin's Drill T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sarah Palin's Drill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Kelman and Ben Boykin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: rob.calm on Nov 12, 2011

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Climb the left-leaning, 5.6 offwidth to the right of the Old Bolted Routes and inside the slot formed by the slab and a big boulder. The offwidth transforms to a thin, right-leaning crack that ends near the 1st bolt. Make a delicate traverse leftwards to the 2nd bolt. Climb up past it (crux) aiming for the obvious corbel. From there itís easy climbing to the top.

See beta photograph for Tunnel Vision.


#1 - #4 Camalots, 3 bolts, bolted rappel station.

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By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Nov 26, 2014

Beware the aggressive ants which populate the crack just before it peters out! Tend to live in the small bushes....
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