Santana
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 33 votes
Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Gary Slate & Joe Rousek, 3/90 |
Page Views: | 5,367 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Jul 29, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
One of my top five ORG routes. Perfect rock, sustained, intricate climbing and a unique belay, nearly in the river, combine for a memorable sport pitch.
The very right side of the Social Platform. In the past one would climb down a man-made rock wall, then traverse above the river to a scaffolding where the belay was established. Note: the route was put in before the river was restored and the original start is now underwater. Now, this route starts off the retaining wall and climbs the arete to the left side of roof. Traverse right to rejoin the original Santana, 19 bolts and 80 meter MANDATORY (close your system w a knot). One anchor total on route, at the top of Abraxas Finish. Clip 2 chain draws while lowering off to the left to facilitate getting back to ledge and keeping your rope dry. The upper cruxes are somewhat atypical for the gorge -- off vertical technical face moves with a 10d crux near the end.
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