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This climb is located just a wee wander up from the virgin area and is identified by a sequence of cracks each offset a couple feet. Indeed, the crux is changing from one crack to the other as the first peters out. For a moderate route (although a stout 5.8), this is about as good as it gets at Penitente and is a great reason to haul gear in. I placed mostly nuts, a small one at the crux. It is super fun and different when your tips are spent from pulling on thin crimpers.
Nuts and cams to 2" plus some quickdraws or slings for the bolt anchor.
|By Mitch Musci|
Oct 29, 2005
I found this line to be enjoyable with nice cracks and good feet. I remember the pro was kinda funky in spots, with the crack opening up in the back.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A mediocre climb with a poorly protected crux that is hard for the grade. Not recommended for a budding 5.8 leader. The crux is pulled just above a low angle apron which you will definitely bounce off of if you blow the moves since your pro is low at this point.
We've climbed it a few times because I doubted my initial impressions but my wife and I both agree- it isn't a very good climb. There are much better places to plug gear at this grade around the canyons. Possibly the best climb at this grade is Mark's Crack a 5.8(-)/5.7 hand crack right of Whipping Post.
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2011
I found this to be a very enjoyable climb on great rock - well worth the effort.
|By Aaron D|
From: Salida, CO
May 6, 2011
Great climb - one of the best moderates in Penitente.
|By Chris Mack|
May 19, 2013
This route doesn't suck. The crux is VERY well protected with a fairly bomber #0.75 Camalot (at chest height) and then you can place a BOMBER nut about 1 foot away from that when you change cracks. I agree that if you are a 5.8 leader, it is going to seem a little intense, but it isn't any harder than .8+ or perhaps 1 move of 5.9. It looks improbable from the trail that it would go at 5.8, and the rock is generally excellent the whole way up. A solid crack route at Penitente, with a bolted anchor, that has an exciting move or two, with bomber rock, that goes at 5.8 and you don't even need tape? How could it suck!? Sign me the fuck up!