By Ben F. From Arcata, CA Oct 4, 2011
| im visiting ucsb in a few weekends and if weather permits id like to do a multi-pitch trad route on a saturday afternoon. whats the closest climbing area to ucsb? whats a classic trad route there (~5.6-5.10)? and if there arent trad routes near ucsb, can anyone recommend good bouldering/sport close to ucsb? thanks |  FLAG |
By Nick Sullens From Hong Kong, Hong Kong Oct 4, 2011
| The closest traditional climbing would probably be Gibraltar, T-Crack and the Nose are quite dope, there is also a 5.6 there that is okay. There is far more bouldering options, I'd suggest Lizards Mouth or the Brickyard, plenty to do at both, the Yard is a little more compact. Gibraltar is about a 45 minute drive from UCSB, Lizards Mouth and the Brickyard are about 35 minutes. Also, there is the Painted Cave boulders, which are probably 20 minutes, excellent climbing there as well. All of the described areas are in the Santa Barbara section of MP. Good luck! |  FLAG |
By C Runyan From Santa Barbara, CA Oct 4, 2011
| T-Crack is fantastic ... committing as hell to lead, but fantastic. If I was going to chose just one spot to visit around Santa Barbara for a mix of moderate trad climbing (and some good bolted routes too) in the 5.6 to 5.10 range, I would choose San Ysidro: mountainproject.com/v/san-ysidro/105794579 Orangahang (5.7 trad), Many Happy Returns (5.8-5.9 trad), and the Great Race (5.10 sport) are all great routes. That said, dont miss out on the bouldering at Painted Cave and Lizard's Mouth. |  FLAG |
By Richard Shore Oct 5, 2011
| All crags in SB are pretty damn close to UCSB, varying from 30-60 minutes drive. The only multi pitch trad in SB is Cathedral Peak, South Face 5.6, and it's not very good. One of the longer drives and an even longer hike. There is some fun single pitch however.. At Gibraltar, T-crack 5.10 and The Nose 5.11a are easily accessible. Any Minute Now is also very fun with wild exposure at a moderate 5.6 grade. Nearby, Pseudomania is a fantastic overhanging 5.11a dihedral. Just over the hill at cold springs dome is Makunaima, the SB trad testpiece at 5.11c. There is also a great 5.9 there that goes on gear, Master Cylinder. These are some harder trad options, and also arguably the best in town. FYI - A Route Runs Through It at upper Gibraltar (mentioned above) is not a traditional climb, it has like 13 bolts on it, all placed on rappel. At your grade level, San Ysidro is THE place to go for traditional climbing. You can get a dozen routes in a day there, but expect crowds on the weekend. Sport climbing and bouldering are what SB is known for, take your pick, most areas are excellent. |  FLAG |
By Joseph Stover From Santa Barbara, CA Oct 5, 2011
| I think San Ysidro is the best crag for trad in SB area, in terms of quantity and quality. You'll need transportation, but Painted Cave is best for a quick bouldering session if you have limited time. Brickyard is more smooth, shady, and crimpy; Lizards mouth is more open and with more rough overhanging jugs. The playground ( mountainproject.com/v/little-lebowski-urban-achievers-crag/1>>> ) is perfect for ticking off a handful of moderate sport routes. The two 10a's on toxic wall are excellent. "A route runs through" it is probably the highest quality local sport line, but I haven't been on it in a long time and remember access being a nightmare (we hiked in from below), but there might be a better way to get to it. Ending crack at the sespe gorge black wall is an awesome 2-pitch moderate, not to be missed. The 5.7 south face route on cathedral peak ( mountainproject.com/v/south-face/105976198 ), although not the most aesthetic rock or highest quality climbing, is a superb adventure multipitch not to be missed either, in my opinion. |  FLAG |
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