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Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.
The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.
34 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Bobby D's Bunny 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Butterfly Flake 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Shady Lady 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Geisha Girl 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Crescendo 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 60'
The Good Book 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Zeitgeist 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 85'
Badass Tattoo 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport
Decameron, The 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Witches of Bangor 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Kinestetica 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Lieback and Enjoy It 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 60'
Weisenheimer Brainstorm 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 85'
Jaws of Life 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
G-String 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
ISO 9000 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Mike Tyson's Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Sandstonia
G-String 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
Some hard sequences with some good rests in between. Climb Bikini Line to the 4th bolt then move right around/over and overlap. Balance up a clean face and then through fun and easier steep moves above to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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