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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.5 My Ass S 
Assman S 
Badass Tattoo S 
Barb Wire S 
Bass Ackwards S 
Bikini Line S 
Bobby D's Bunny S 
Booby Prize S 
Butterfly Flake S 
Celtic Sun S 
Centennial S 
Clean Shaved S 
Crescendo S 
Decameron, The S 
G-String S 
Geisha Girl S 
Good Book, The S 
Hardcore Female Rash S 
Hepatitis C S 
ISO 9000 S 
Jaws of Life S 
Kinesthetica S 
Layback and Enjoy It S 
Lord of the Jungle T 
Mike Tyson's Face S 
Mrs. Field's Follies S 
One Repetition Max S 
Pay It Forward S 
Plumber's Crack T 
Pure Power S 
Shady Lady S 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 
Witches of Bangor S 
Zeitgeist S 


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Location: 38.1, -81.0971 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Sep 5, 2006

74° | 52°

63° | 40°

68° | 49°
Columbus Day

72° | 53°

65° | 48°

66° | 49°
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View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...


Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.

However, There are a great many classic routs here including 5.5 My Ass, Assman, Kinestetica, Geisha Girl, and many more that I haven't yet climbed I'm sure.

Getting There 

The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.

Note the access may change at any time. This access path was good as of December 2007. Check newriverclimbing.net for most recent updates.

Thanks Tim Schafstall for your contribution.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Bobby D's Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Plumber's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shady Lady   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Butterfly Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Crescendo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Pay It Forward   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Good Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Zeitgeist   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   
Badass Tattoo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Kinesthetica   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Witches of Bangor   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Booby Prize   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Layback and Enjoy It   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Jaws of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
G-String   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
ISO 9000   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mike Tyson's Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Sandstonia

Featured Route For Sandstonia
Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.

Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2008
Partial topo is available as an addendum to Eric Horst's Bubba City guide :


This guide has a topo of Sandstonia.
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