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DescriptionSport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here. Getting ThereThe parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Plumber's Crack 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Shady Lady 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Butterfly Flake 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Geisha Girl 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Crescendo 5.9 Sport, 60 feet
Zeitgeist 5.10a Sport, 85 feet
The Good Book 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Badass Tattoo 5.10b Sport
Decameron, The 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Kinestetica 5.10c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Lieback and Enjoy It 5.10d Sport, 60 feet
Weisenheimer Brainstorm 5.11a Sport, 85 feet
G-String 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
ISO 9000 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Mike Tyson's Face 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Sandstonia
G-String 5.11a WV : New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
Some hard sequences with some good rests in between. Climb Bikini Line to the 4th bolt then move right around/over and overlap. Balance up a clean face and then through fun and easier steep moves above to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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