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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.5 My Ass 
Badass Tattoo 
Barb Wire 
Bass Ackwards 
Bikini Line 
Bobby D's Bunny 
Bobby Prize 
Butterfly Flake 
Celtic Sun 
Clean Shaved 
Decameron, The 
Geisha Girl 
Good Book, The 
Hardcore Female Rash 
Hepatitis C 
ISO 9000 
Jaws of Life 
Lieback and Enjoy It 
Lord of the Jungle 
Mike Tyson's Face 
Mrs. Field's Follies 
One Repetition Max 
Pay It Forward 
Plumber's Crack 
Pure Power 
Shady Lady 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm 
Witches of Bangor 


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View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...


Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.

However, There are a great many classic routs here including 5.5 My Ass, Assman, Kinestetica, Geisha Girl, and many more that I haven't yet climbed I'm sure.

Getting There 

The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.

Note the access may change at any time. This access path was good as of December 2007. Check for most recent updates.

Thanks Tim Schafstall for your contribution.

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Bobby D's Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Shady Lady   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Butterfly Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Crescendo   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Zeitgeist   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 85'   
The Good Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Badass Tattoo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport   
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Witches of Bangor   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kinestetica   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lieback and Enjoy It   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Jaws of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
G-String   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Weisenheimer Brainstorm   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 85'   
ISO 9000   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mike Tyson's Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Sandstonia

Featured Route For Sandstonia
Muel Clipping the bolt before the last roof.

Kinestetica 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
60m Rope Necessary.Fluid, Flowing climb, many many 5.10 moves, no moves below 5.7 but only one 5.10c move, coming out of the roof and pulling the blinding(sunny) move above.Ultra-Classic!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2008

Partial topo is available as an addendum to Eric Horst's Bubba City guide :

This guide has a topo of Sandstonia.