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Most of this area is a fine grained sandstone that offers decent friction but is pretty easy on the hands. There is a ~15 foot thick limestone unit about a third of the way up the buttress. There are both trad, toprope and bolted lines ALL OVER this thing!!! The sandstone takes pro really well and the trad routes vary in length from about 50 feet up to over 200 feet (2 pitches). Gunnky (5.8) is one of the most popular. Toprope routes are on the face right along the road (Road Test Wall) just before you get to the pull off across from the campground/park. Other routes start on the big, prominent ledge about 50 feet up as well as a second ledge above that one. Although it is the first area you come to in Sinks Canyon, most people skip it to go to the more classic limestone climbing areas further up the canyon, so it's usually fairly empty!
This is the first major prominent rock formation (about 250 feet tall) as you enter Sinks Canyon. The parking area is a pull off on the right as you enter the canyon just past the State Park sign and directly across from the playground/park/campground. The approach is just a short trail from the parking area up to the ledges on the cliff face where you access the routes (approximately 2 minutes to the first ledge).
6 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sandstone Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstone Buttress:
Sentinal Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
No Name Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 40'
Gunky 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
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