2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Exquisite position and movement. You will encounter laybacks, smears, crimps, palming, dynos, backsteps, flags, and an overhang. Quite a few moves packed into a short pitch 200 feet above the ground. Clip the first bolt by climbing near the anchors and reaching right. Then start climbing below the first bolt. This is so you do not fall directly onto the belay. There is one rest below the overhang.
Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint.
Very interesting movement. It's tougher than it looks...especially when it's raining.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 9, 2010 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
This route is a whole lot of good for 35 feet of climbing! It's all there, but it's got to be hard to onsight.... I popped off of a heel hook while clipping bolt #4 and fell almost to the belay. It was/is a pretty safe, clean fall from anywhere on the route once the first bolt is clipped, even with slack pulled.
Nice work on finding an improbable line that adds value to the wall.
I chatted with Greg about this one briefly. Which lead both of us to wonder.... Has ANYONE onsighted this thing yet?
So, if all these 5.12 climbers are failing to on-sight it, should the rating be raised?? I guess Bob & I originally rated it 5.11c/d, and everyone else has rated it higher. If we had rated it 5.12, would everyone concur?
I think 11+ is fair - it's just a tricky, technical one. And as we all know, 11+ is usually harder than most 5.12a's anyway....
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 10, 2010 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
For what it's worth, I don't consider myself a 5.12 climber for on-sight because it's not a rule of thumb for me. More like 11+... on a good day. After surveying friends about this one lately, and hearing of friend's and friend's of friends attempts, I came up with one "nearly." Mark Gay beta-flashed it after watching Jon Sargeant on it (who also did not on-sight). I think 11d is fair, but it's just going to be a booger to on-sight. If pre inspected or "sprayed" down fully before giving it a go, it would not be so bad. That's why I personally gave it 11d. It's all there, but it is a booger to read right out of the gate. If you give it 5.12, then what's going to happen is people will do a few laps, read point and downgrade it. Perhaps you can safely rate this thing when we can get all climbers to agree if grades are redpoint or on-sight oriented?!?!?