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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Sands of Iwo Jima 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 10/8/2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,536
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Oct 8, 2007

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Great tip laybacks lead to the third bolt. Photo b...

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Description 

Exquisite position and movement. You will encounter laybacks, smears, crimps, palming, dynos, backsteps, flags, and an overhang. Quite a few moves packed into a short pitch 200 feet above the ground. Clip the first bolt by climbing near the anchors and reaching right. Then start climbing below the first bolt. This is so you do not fall directly onto the belay. There is one rest below the overhang.

Location 

Begin atop Flags of Our Fathers.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 11, 2013
By david goldstein
Oct 13, 2007

Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2007

Hey, what's with the double bolts at the crux?
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Oct 15, 2007

Steve,

It was a hard move, and I don't think you should trust just one piece.

Edit (8/29/2008), just so everyone knows, there are not 2 bolts together. This is an inside joke between Steve and me concerning another thread.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 1, 2008

Great route. The setting is awesome to start from the top of Bihedral Arete. Tough liebacking moves and hidden holds make it tough to onsight. Sweet route well worth doing.

CL
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it!
By proto
From: Falmouth (MA)
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Very nice even if it is also very short.
I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.
By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Oct 29, 2009

Very interesting movement. It's tougher than it looks...especially when it's raining.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is a whole lot of good for 35 feet of climbing!
It's all there, but it's got to be hard to onsight.... I popped off of a heel hook while clipping bolt #4 and fell almost to the belay. It was/is a pretty safe, clean fall from anywhere on the route once the first bolt is clipped, even with slack pulled.

Nice work on finding an improbable line that adds value to the wall.

I chatted with Greg about this one briefly. Which lead both of us to wonder.... Has ANYONE onsighted this thing yet?
By Pinklebear
Jun 9, 2010

I onsighted it on my second try after hanging the first time!
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 9, 2010

So, if all these 5.12 climbers are failing to on-sight it, should the rating be raised?? I guess Bob & I originally rated it 5.11c/d, and everyone else has rated it higher. If we had rated it 5.12, would everyone concur?
By Pinklebear
Jun 10, 2010

I think 11+ is fair - it's just a tricky, technical one. And as we all know, 11+ is usually harder than most 5.12a's anyway....
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

For what it's worth, I don't consider myself a 5.12 climber for on-sight because it's not a rule of thumb for me. More like 11+... on a good day.
After surveying friends about this one lately, and hearing of friend's and friend's of friends attempts, I came up with one "nearly." Mark Gay beta-flashed it after watching Jon Sargeant on it (who also did not on-sight).
I think 11d is fair, but it's just going to be a booger to on-sight. If pre inspected or "sprayed" down fully before giving it a go, it would not be so bad. That's why I personally gave it 11d. It's all there, but it is a booger to read right out of the gate.
If you give it 5.12, then what's going to happen is people will do a few laps, read point and downgrade it. Perhaps you can safely rate this thing when we can get all climbers to agree if grades are redpoint or on-sight oriented?!?!?
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 28, 2011

Yes, quite harder than it looks! Wasn't sure whether to layback or just krank upward. Couldn't onsight it. Felt like a 12 compared to other 11d's I tried.
By justin hausmann
Nov 22, 2012

11d felt appropriate. Tough to onsight (didn't) but with beta not so bad.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

My friend Maciej onsighted this thing, but he was a solid 5.12c climber at the time. I think 11d for sure.