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Sandia Wilderness to reopen on 7/16/2013
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 15, 2013
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Word on the street is the Sandia Wilderness will reopen tomorrow, July 16, at 8:00am. I haven't found an official release yet but several folks have corroborated this info today. If I find something definitive, I'll add it here.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 15, 2013
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Well, another source now says Wednesday because the order hasn't been signed just yet. But it sounds promising for the weekend climbing nonetheless.

Keep an eye on nmfireinfo.com/ for information


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By Paul Davidson
Jul 15, 2013

Never believe re-opening rumors until you see the official posting.
There's speculation all over. Let's just hope it's this week.


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Jul 15, 2013

Sandia Ranger District Lifts Fire Restrictions 8:00 a.m. Tuesday, July 16

Whoot!

As of a few days ago, word was they'd wait a bit longer than this.

You're right though, Paul. Have seen rumors of them opening come and go.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 15, 2013
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Thanks for the link, Bill. The info I had heard was a bit more than rumor but not by much. Glad to hear things around here are wetter and reopening. We can now start making plans for the weekend!


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Jul 16, 2013

Seems you have a good source, Jason. I decided to check Cibola's page only after seeing your post about the word on the street. Timing was good.


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By Paul Davidson
Jul 16, 2013

What's really odd is I checked the USFS website and that lift wasn't posted yet. awesome to see it finally!


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Jul 17, 2013

I suspect the USFS really agonizes over these things. And I wonder if there was an added twist for them in that the city made an earlier decision to open adjacent ABQ open spaces.

Took a celebratory hike / scramble yesterday evening low in the Sandia foothills. Lots of evidence of running water and dirt/grit stuck high on vertical faces of rock. Akin to climbing cracks at White rock last Sunday where forearms became fully coated with dirt during one lead.


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 17, 2013

Bill how was the weather in white rock (heat wise)? I have a sinus surgery coming up and want to go out there the weekend after but I was thinking it may be still to hot. I was thinking of going to the Y or potrillo, maybe the overlook.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 17, 2013
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Hey Ian, Bill can give you his opinion but I'll throw mine in too. I would suggest avoiding Potrillo and the Y because both areas face mostly south and bake in the summer time. The more easterly-facing walls like the main area of Overlook, Old New Place, Below the Old New Place and the east side of Big Enchilada go into the shade around 1:30pm and are reasonable climbing in the afternoon/evening.
A couple weeks ago it was pretty miserable even on the shaded White Rock walls but since it's been clouding up and raining more regularly, it's been more fun in White Rock.


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Jul 18, 2013

Jason, Thanks for weighing in. I was hoping you (or someone more familiar) would.

By the way, there was a lot of dirt on the rock last Sunday that had recently washed down from above. Do you have a feel for how long it takes for that stuff to really dry out and slough off? All of us at one point were fully covered in dislodged dirt from elbows to finger tips!

Ian, I really can't add more. While we had a good time last Sunday at the Overlook, I wouldn't go early like we did. I'd aim to arrive there in the early afternoon and plan to climb into the evening pretty much as Jason said.


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 18, 2013

Thanks for the response Jason and Bill maybe I will hold off on that till the end of august. This weekend I plan to go do some easy stuff in the sandias. I bet a lot of people will be out and about in the sandias this weekend so I plan for a early start.


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By codrew
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 18, 2013
Dappled Mare - JTree

All, are you talking about the Sandias being covered in dirt/mud or the white rocks area? I'm headed up into the Sandias tomorrow, any walls you would suggest I avoid due to dirt/moisture?
Thanks
Drew


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 18, 2013

I belive all the talk about dirt has been in whiterock. As for the sandias I don't know I plan to go up there saturday and maybe some bouldering during next week so hopefully they are good. If you go tomorrow be carefull looks like we are going to get some rain.


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Jul 18, 2013

In general, whether White Rock or Sandias or whatever, the dirt-status is going to be crag/wall specific. If there's a lot of loose dirt on top that tends to get washed over the cliff - there'll be dirt on the wall. If not then it'll probably be pretty clean once off the deck.

I suspect the White Rock in general has the right conditions for dirt after a rain.


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By George Perkins
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 18, 2013
I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.

In general, White Rock is pretty clean, even after heavy rains. I climbed there 3 times last week. A few climbs seem to be perpetually dirty, though. Often, easier cracks have this problem the most, but some faces too (No Exit, Double Vision, Way Beyond Zebra, Sardonic Smile, PMS, Black Wall). It helps if someone like Bill goes first. Old New Place is probably the cleanest cliff in the area. Playground can be dirty following rains.
If you're looking for shade earlier in the day, try these (though I'll admit they aren't White Rock's finest crags):
-The back side of the Overlook (then you can go to the front side in early afternoon)
-the Pit
-the few climbs on the S side of the Y

The Sandias will be better temps, of course.


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 19, 2013

on the topic of the sandias, Does anyone have the new sandia rock book for 2013? I just ordered it but looks like it will take 3 weeks to get. How is it?


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By codrew
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 19, 2013
Dappled Mare - JTree

I haven't seen any of the older ones, but I find it to be a good supplement to MP. Been told the approach descriptions are better than previous, will find out today if this is true, headed to a new spot so relying on the book and MP to get me there.


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By George Perkins
From Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2013
I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.

The new "Sandia Rock" book is the best resource for climbing in the Sandias.

It's similar to the old version, but has 50% more climbs and some updates.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Jul 19, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

ian watson wrote:
on the topic of the sandias, Does anyone have the new sandia rock book for 2013? I just ordered it but looks like it will take 3 weeks to get. How is it?


Stone Age has a ton of copies.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Jul 19, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

George Perkins wrote:
The new "Sandia Rock" book is the best resource for climbing in the Sandias. It's similar to the old version, but has 50% more climbs and some updates.

And, yet it is still very incomplete, though it does include most of what is worth doing.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Jul 19, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

abqdrew wrote:
I haven't seen any of the older ones, but I find it to be a good supplement to MP. Been told the approach descriptions are better than previous, will find out today if this is true, headed to a new spot so relying on the book and MP to get me there.


Good luck, the intro to the new book basically says, plan on getting lost.....it is part of the adventure.


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 19, 2013

LeeAB wrote:
Stone Age has a ton of copies.



Darn I have already ordered from amazon when REI said it did not have it. I forgot all about stone age.


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By codrew
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 19, 2013
Dappled Mare - JTree

Yup, I got lost Lee, wandered around for about two hours before finally finding Sentinal (I think). By that time the sky was starting to look rather ominous so we retreated back to the car. Adventure for another day!


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jul 23, 2013

I got my copy of Sandia rock yesterday. It looks about the same as my old book, a few more routes. I wish it gave heights for the routes. maybe some color pictures would help I am just spoiled and used to the jemez rock book I suppose.


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By Williampenner
From The 505
Jul 23, 2013
Beaver Mountain

ian watson wrote:
I got my copy of Sandia rock yesterday. It looks about the same as my old book, a few more routes. I wish it gave heights for the routes. maybe some color pictures would help I am just spoiled and used to the jemez rock book I suppose.


The new book has a bunch of new routes and is a great resource--tons of thanks to Mick for completing such a huge task. Not sure what grade you are climbing Ian, but most of the new routes are harder and totally worth doing. I would argue some of the best routes in the Sandias have only appeared in the most recent guidebook. At the more moderate 5.10 grade I highly recommend Lee's two routes over by Hole in the Wall...Dr. Jeckle & Mr. Hyde. Those pitches totally rule.

William


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