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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wee Changrua & Josh Morris, 2/2003
Season: Gets afternoon sun in winter
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2009

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


A hard climb that was originally rated 7a (11d) and has since been downgraded to even more effectively earn its name.
From the ladder clip in the belayer intolt he first bolt on a 3' sling to avoid a tragic result from an early fall, then lead out and left past that and the second clip. Turn directly uphill through a thin bulge (hard when in the sun) and execute the first crux (11c, technical) after the 3rd clip. Continue up on easier ground to the pumpy overhang at the top of the cave. Come out the incredibly steep wall on threaded ropes and a final bolt (crux, 11d, pumpy and tricky) and out to the final holds. Skipping a clip will be tempting, but the top holds are not "gimmes" so maybe you shouldn't. Finish with a hopeful flash, rather than flash-pump!


This is the leftmost route in the archway and climbs out from the left of the top of the rebar ladder onto Crazy Horse Wall and up into the top of the cave. The optional finish leads up through a hole and outside of the arch to a second pitch of climbing (6a+/10b) as for the second pitch of 'Gift Horse' on The Crazyhorse Buttress.


6 bolts and 2 threads to a 2-bolt anchor with chains and steel biners. Optional finish extends an additional bolt and to an additional anchor.

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