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Chuckawalla Wall
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Apocalyptico S 
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Armageddon S 
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Popular Demand S 
Sand Puppy S 
Sand Witch S 
Sandcastle S 
Sands of Blood S 
Say Your Prayers S 
Second Coming S 
Solace S 
Staloner S 
Still Waiting S 
Three Bars Black S 
Tombstone Bullets S 
Vertical Smile S 

Sand Witch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: KipHenrie on Jun 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: Sand Witch (January 2014)

Description 

Reachy crimpers and a good rest lead to fun thin topout. Crux is the top and after the second bolt with very thin pinchers. A hard 11b and a worthwhile journey.

Location 

From Second Coming it is 2 climbs to the right.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains.


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By Bad Sock Puppet
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I deceiving little climb! I thought the crux was after the second bolt since I shot to the chains very easily. The crux move is tough, but once you figure out the correct movements the climb definately stays .11b...still hard for the grade though.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sandiness, tricky sequences, big pinches and a couple of long run-outs--an exciting climb to be sure. I personally don't like the slabby, thin top section. If someone hadn't kindly made big white tick marks on the only marginal feet near the top, I'd have pitched off for sure.
By chad lewis
Dec 13, 2015

Just so everyone is aware. Someone broke a hold from climbing on this route right after it rained. We need to remember that sandstone, especially chuck's is super brittle and even if you are visiting and "need" to climb at chuck, just save it for another day if it rained. It's not worth breaking a hold over and changing a route forever. The hold that broke is the right side pinch or gaston that's how I used it, right above the second bolt. I couldn't tell if it changed the grade at all but that may be something the community needs to check out.
By Brennan Crellin
Administrator
From: Draper, UT
Jan 6, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Climbed this 1/2/16. I climbed it without even using that (right pinch) hold above the second bolt (because it's terrible now). It felt like a very stiff 11b move, maybe 11c now. All other moves are 10d-11a ish.

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