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The San Rafael Swell is a huge area in the center of Utah, with few people and fewer services. It is the area roughly bordered by Price in the north, Green River to the east, Capitol Reef to the south, and the mountains to the west. I-70 divides the swell into two parts, and is the only paved road within the swell. US 6, Utah highways 10 and 24, and the Moore cutoff road travel around the edges of the swell, and there are many dirt roads - some are good, some are very bad, and all can be difficult to travel during big storms.
This is a vast area in the center of Utah split by I-70. The most popular areas are accessed by the Buckhorn Wash Road. Most of the main roads in this area are good dirt roads, and you can usually at least get close in a 2WD. The road conditions can change quickly since they don't see much traffic, and the remote parts of the swell are not a good place to have car trouble. Visitors should always come to the swell with a full tank of gas, a spare tire in good condition, and extra food and water just in case.
362 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell:
1000' of Fun 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 1000' Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
1200' of more Fun 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 1200' Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Knights-Errant 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 870' Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Death by Chocolate 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 9 pitches, 1700' Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Unknown Handcrack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60' San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
Curiosity Killed The Cat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 1110' Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Cheek Full of Redman 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70' San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200' San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Short Stack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80' San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 450' San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
Featured Route For San Rafael Swell
Toviah Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Toviah Tower
Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+. The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing. P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the roc...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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