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DescriptionThe San Rafael Swell is a huge area in the center of Utah, with few people and fewer services. It is the area roughly bordered by Price in the north, Green River to the east, Capitol Reef to the south, and the mountains to the west. I-70 divides the swell into two parts, and is the only paved road within the swell. US 6, Utah highways 10 and 24, and the Moore cutoff road travel around the edges of the swell, and there are many dirt roads - some are good, some are very bad, and all can be difficult to travel during big storms. Getting ThereThis is a vast area in the center of Utah split by I-70. The most popular areas are accessed by the Buckhorn Wash Road. Most of the main roads in this area are good dirt roads, and you can usually at least get close in a 2WD. The road conditions can change quickly since they don't see much traffic, and the remote parts of the swell are not a good place to have car trouble. Visitors should always come to the swell with a full tank of gas, a spare tire in good condition, and extra food and water just in case. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell:
1000' of Fun 5.6 Trad, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
1200' of more Fun 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade II Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
A Mile and a Bit of Fun 5.8 R Trad, 6600 feet, Grade III Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : P Crags
Knights-Errant 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 870 feet, Grade II Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Death by Chocolate 5.8 Trad, 9 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade III Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Toviah Tower 5.8+ Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Eagle Canyon : Toviah Tower
Private Pizza 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
Cheek Full of Redman 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
Old Bushmills 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Super Crack of the Reef 5.10 Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo...
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Anchors From Hell 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Short Stack 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Lite Not Solid 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Planet Waves 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Zoomerang 5.11- Trad, 4 pitches, Grade IV San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
Rabid Muslim 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Idiot Wind 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
Blood on the Tracks 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Featured Route For San Rafael Swell
Rabid Muslim 5.11 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Pine Canyon
This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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