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San Rafael Swell
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San Rafael Swell - North 
San Rafael Swell - South 

San Rafael Swell 


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Lat, Long: 38.8525, -110.701 Map
Page Views: 782,551. Good page?   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jan 19, 2006

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Description 

The San Rafael Swell is a huge area in the center of Utah, with few people and fewer services. It is the area roughly bordered by Price in the north, Green River to the east, Capitol Reef to the south, and the mountains to the west. I-70 divides the swell into two parts, and is the only paved road within the swell. US 6, Utah highways 10 and 24, and the Moore cutoff road travel around the edges of the swell, and there are many dirt roads - some are good, some are very bad, and all can be difficult to travel during big storms.

The climbing in the swell is tremendously varied, and lies on the adventurous end of the spectrum. Buckhorn Wash is the most popular area, and hosts a high concentration of excellent Wingate crack climbing, as well as towers and bouldering. The San Rafael Reef, AKA the Sandstone Alps, have extremely long slab routes on mostly good rock with very significant runouts. Other areas are less popular, but the climbing is very good for those who are interested in exploring.

Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock II is the main printed guide to the swell, but it is out of print and only has a small percentage of the routes that have been done. Cam Burns Selected Climbs of the Desert Southwest has a few routes, as does the Falcon Rock Climbing Utah guidebook. New routes are going in constantly, and at this point mountainproject supplemented by Desert Rock II is the best source of information, though it is far from complete.

In addition to rock climbing, the San Rafael Swell is home to impressive rock art, many slot canyons, mountain biking, mellow flatwater canoe trips, class III slot canyon duckie floats, and wild class V kayaking. Crowds are minimal compared to the Moab area, though so are any kind of developed services.

There are no towns or services in the San Rafael Swell aside from a rest area on I70 and a few outhouses along the Buckhorn Wash Road. The closest places for food or gas are Green River, Price, Castledale, Hanksville, or Salina depending on where in the swell you are. Cell phones get no reception except for a few spots along I70. There is great camping pretty much everywhere in the swell, but bring all of your food, water, and firewood.

The swell is all BLM land, and has little regulation aside from the wilderness study areas. The downside to this is that the area gets trashed sometimes, especially by OHVers who visit the area in large numbers. Practice leave no trace, clean up after others as much as you can, and consider using wag bags if you can't make it to one of the outhouses.


Getting There 

This is a vast area in the center of Utah split by I-70. The most popular areas are accessed by the Buckhorn Wash Road. Most of the main roads in this area are good dirt roads, and you can usually at least get close in a 2WD. The road conditions can change quickly since they don't see much traffic, and the remote parts of the swell are not a good place to have car trouble. Visitors should always come to the swell with a full tank of gas, a spare tire in good condition, and extra food and water just in case.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell:
1000' of Fun   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
1200' of more Fun   5.7     Trad, 6 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
A Mile and a Bit of Fun   5.8 R     Trad, 6600 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : P Crags
Knights-Errant   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 870 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Death by Chocolate   5.8     Trad, 9 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Toviah Tower   5.8+     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III   Eagle Canyon : Toviah Tower
Private Pizza   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
Cheek Full of Redman   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall
Old Bushmills   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Super Crack of the Reef   5.10     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo...
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Anchors From Hell   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Short Stack   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Lite Not Solid   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Planet Waves   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Zoomerang   5.11-     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade IV   San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
Rabid Muslim   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
Idiot Wind   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Tippin The Botttle   5.11+     Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III   San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
Blood on the Tracks   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Browse More Classics in San Rafael Swell

Featured Route For San Rafael Swell
Mitch Hogsett working his way past the roof. 2005

Rabid Muslim 5.11  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Pine Canyon
This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of San Rafael Swell Slideshow Add Photo
Middle Sister <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller

Middle Sister
Photo by: Frosty Weller


Thin Man Pinnacle <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller

Thin Man Pinnacle
Photo by: Frosty Weller


Thin Man Pinnacle <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller

Thin Man Pinnacle
Photo by: Frosty Weller


Thin Man Pinnacle <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller

Thin Man Pinnacle
Photo by: Frosty Weller


Looking down the southern end of the Eastern Reef Slabs.The large slab in the foreground is the Surfing the Swell section over 1600'in height.

BETA PHOTO: Looking down the southern end of the Eastern Reef ...

Looking up the northern section of the Eastern Reef Slabs, There is about six miles of slab formations that have  climbs up to 2000' in lenth.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up the northern section of the Eastern Ree...

The Weasel and Pinnacle formations.. Northern Swell

The Weasel and Pinnacle formations.. Northern Swel...

Dawn from the Eastern Reef Slabs looking towards the La Sal Mts

Dawn from the Eastern Reef Slabs looking towards t...

The Hollow Men ..A climb out of Three Finger Canyon.Eastern Reef Slab area.

The Hollow Men ..A climb out of Three Finger Canyo...

A perfect December day on the Eastern Reef

A perfect December day on the Eastern Reef

Summer in Three Fingers Canyon

Summer in Three Fingers Canyon

Sunrise on the Triple Buttress... Eastern Reef

Sunrise on the Triple Buttress... Eastern Reef

Evening camp site at The Reef

Evening camp site at The Reef

The summits ....

The summits ....

The San Rafael. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

The San Rafael.
Photo by Blitzo.


Driving down to the Eastern Reef, from east to west.

Driving down to the Eastern Reef, from east to wes...

FA "The Rooster". Weasel Formation Northern Swell. Photo Keen Butterworth

FA "The Rooster". Weasel Formation Northern Swell....

Wild Burros near Three Finger Canyon . Crockett

Wild Burros near Three Finger Canyon . Crockett

One of the many awesome campsites located throughout the Swell.

One of the many awesome campsites located througho...

There's more to the Swell than climbing! Eddie sliding into the first pothole of "3 Fingers Canyon" on a chilly March descent.

There's more to the Swell than climbing! Eddie sli...

Little Grand Canyon Overlook

Little Grand Canyon Overlook


Comments on San Rafael Swell Add Comment
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By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 5, 2013

Can anyone suggest a good guidebook on the San Rafael Swell?

By user id
Mar 5, 2013

You're looking at it.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2013

Desert Rock II has some information that isn't on the proj, but it is out of print and i guess is expensive if you can find it.

Guidebooks are a tough proposition for the swell since new routes are going in constantly, it is a huge spread out area, and lots of the climbers there are crusty folks who don't like to share or have never heard of the internet.