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San Rafael Swell - South
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Back of the Reef 
Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The Sandstone Alps 
Factory Butte 
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Head of Sinbad South 
Long Dong Silver Area 
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Reds Canyon 
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San Rafael Swell - South 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 27, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Looking south along the Eastern Reef slabs and can...

Description 

The southern San Rafael Swell is a huge area with big slabs on the San Rafael Reef, isolated towers and domes. Currently there are well over a two hundred routes in the Reef area alone with potential for many more.
Free camping is available pretty much everywhere and the nearest services are in Green River about 14 miles from the Reef.
It is a good idea to have maps of the area as you will likely see no one and there are many old roads all over the place.
However the road into the Reef Slab area from I.70 or the Hanksville road (Rte 24) are very straight forward.


Getting There 

This huge spread out area is south of I70 west of Green River. Everything is very spread out so more specific directions will be included with the rock formations themselves.See Getting there on Eastern Reef Slabs and Walls section.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell - South:
1000' of Fun   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Faith Hope and Clarity   5.8 R     Trad, 5 pitches, 1400 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : L Crags (Sinister Slab Area...
Knights-Errant   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 870 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Day of Endless Chocolate   5.8     Trad, 13 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Death by Chocolate   5.8     Trad, 9 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon)
A Mile and a Bit of Fun   5.8 R     Trad, 6600 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : P Crags
The Grand Expedition   5.8+ R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1340 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : K Crags
Surfing The Swell   5.9 R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1400 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : K Crags
The Holy Braille   5.9 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 560 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : F Crags
The Giraffe   5.9 R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1130 feet   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : M Crags
On a Wing and a Prayer   5.9+ R     Trad, 4 pitches, 780 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : G Crags
More Madness   5.10     Trad, 4 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : F Crags
The Cat's Me-ow.   5.10     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Super Crack of the Reef   5.10     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo...
Necropolis   5.11     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
Reptilian Curiosity   5.11 R     Trad, 6 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo...
The Hunter   5.11c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : J Crags
Innominate   5.12a     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo...
Easy Street   5.12- PG13     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 520 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : F Crags
Wandering Poet   5.12 PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III   Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo...
Browse More Classics in San Rafael Swell - South

Featured Route For San Rafael Swell - South
Paul at first bolt P1

Just Dreams 5.9 R  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : L Crags (Sinister Slab Area...
Situated on the Sinister Slab formation. Approach from the Three Finger Canyon trail .About quarter mile before the entrance walk north for about 20 mins.Starts 50' right of "Faith Hope and Clarity" The climb is on good rock and has two excellent slab pitches(P1.Climb up past a bolt at 30'. Then a .75"Cam to another bolt.Continue to double anchors. 170'5.8R (P2.Easy grooves and slab lead to a black block below the right hand slim clean groove.(the grooves on the left are Faith Hope and Clarity) ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of San Rafael Swell - South Slideshow Add Photo
View from the Summit area of Death by Chocolate looking south

View from the Summit area of Death by Chocolate lo...

On the Slabs

On the Slabs

Waterfalls on the San Rafael Reef after a strong thunderstorm.  Remeber that those slabs are over 1000 feet tall.  You wouldn't want to be caught on a climb in conditions like that!

Waterfalls on the San Rafael Reef after a strong t...

Scot Carson on the grove first pitches of Endless Journey, Death by Chocolate Area..View full size.. photo Paul Ross

Scot Carson on the grove first pitches of Endless ...

Scott Carson on the crux pitch of Day of Atonement.. View full size.. photo Paul Ross

Scott Carson on the crux pitch of Day of Atonement...

Rosco Rescue

Rosco Rescue

Evening panorama from Death by Chocolate

Evening panorama from Death by Chocolate

Looking north from Death by Chocolate

Looking north from Death by Chocolate

Looking down the southern end Of the Reef Slabs. The Large slab in the forground is the Surfing the Swell formation ,over 1600' high. The dark canyon wall to the right forms C) Bongo Canyon > Two excellent climbs start out of this canyon. Silver Lining 5.12 and Feeding the Rat 5.9-A) Two Fingers Canyon B) Three Fingers Canyon

BETA PHOTO: Looking down the southern end Of the Reef Slabs. T...

Big Horn Sheep at the entrance of Three Fingers Canyon

Big Horn Sheep at the entrance of Three Fingers Ca...

The chap's...  the driver was responsable for most of the area's new routes.

The chap's... the driver was responsable for most...

Spring flowers on the Reef.

Spring flowers on the Reef.

Desert Flowers

Desert Flowers

Slabbing in the Swell

Slabbing in the Swell

Upper Muddy Creek

Upper Muddy Creek

The Desert Rats

The Desert Rats

Keep your eye out for Pronghorn! What an incredible animal.

Keep your eye out for Pronghorn! What an incredibl...

The Black Dragon pictograph.

The Black Dragon pictograph.

Interesting figures on the Black Dragon panel.

Interesting figures on the Black Dragon panel.

Black Dragon panel.

Black Dragon panel.

The Black Dragon panel

The Black Dragon panel

The Black Dragon panel

The Black Dragon panel

Awesome slot canyons penetrating the reef. This is near the bottom of Dang canyon.

Awesome slot canyons penetrating the reef. This is...


Comments on San Rafael Swell - South Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Folsom
Jun 4, 2008

Andrew, Nathan or Perin... The routes Angle of Repose and Wandering Poet should now be moved to the Little Spotted Wolf Canyon area now that Paul has added that.
It seems to me that there should be some reorganization here. The place is hard to figure out if you haven't done a lot of exploring. There should be a general area- Eastern Reef Slabs, and under that there should be sub-areas. Like Little Spotted Wolf Canyon and envirions, Three Finger Canyon & environs, Uneva Mine Canyon and environs, etc... At this stage, if you went there even with a whole mini guide of the area printed out (which is probably about 100 pages) it would still be hard to figure it out.

By USBRIT
Jun 4, 2008

Hey Ben that's what adventure climbing is all about ...figuring it out .We do not want to make it too easy for the lads and lasses from Boulder.

By Ben Folsom
Jun 5, 2008

I know, you are right... They've been complaining so much though, that I thought I would try to help out a little. It's fine with me though if things are left the way they are. I don't have any problems with the area, it all seems pretty straight forward, especially with all the photos we have posted.

By USBRIT
Jun 5, 2008

It is still a nice peaceful place that we have mainly to ourselves or at most the few climbers who love the tranquility of the desert. Thank God its not like Rifle, Shelf Road ,or Potash with folks screaming "Take".The future of climbing in the Swell will become more understandable and perhaps more popular soon enough..................We went on the Reef with no information ,if visiting climbers cannot figure out the massive amount of info that is already on this site its perhaps better they stay with the crowds.

By Ben Folsom
Jun 5, 2008

Paul, I totally agree... That is the reason I haven't been to Indian Creek in almost ten years. The climbing is great there, but the crowds and the attitude don't suite what the desert is about for me. Buckhorn has also become way too crowded for my liking. So I guess you are right, leave it organized how it is... Things are explained pretty well here anyway.

By USBRIT
Sep 27, 2011

The dirt Road into the Reef both from I.70 and the Hanksville road is now graded and in very good condition. Sept 27th 2011