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Elevation: 5,104 ft
GPS: 39.07827, -110.66498
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Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

The San Rafael Swell is a large anticline that is split in two by I-70.  The areas and routes under this description are all north of I-70.

Much of the documented climbing north of the interstate is concentrated within a few miles of the BLM campground at the junction of Cottonwood Wash Road and the Mexican Mountain Road. This campground has tables and a toilet and charges $3/person/night. There are many free camping opportunities along both of these roads and within a quick drive/bikeride of the toilet. There is no fresh water, and firewood is non-existent. The largest concentration of routes is on the Dylan Wall two miles east of the campground on the north side of the river. The Mexican Mountain Road (to the Dylan Wall) is easily passable by two-wheel drive vehicles unless the road has been washed out.

Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock (Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell) offers a selection of climbs and an impressive history and geology lesson that should not be missed. While this area does not offer an extensive amount of established routes in comparison to places like Indian Creek, it has a sense of gradeur and seclusion that makes it every bit as enjoyable.

Getting There Suggest change

30 miles west of the interstate exit for Green River, take exit 131. Make two rights, and follow I-70 back east for a few miles then north for 20 miles to the San Rafael River and the campgrounds. This road was in excellent shape for two-wheel drive traffic (10/02). The road continues north up Buckhorn Wash, or once across the bridge the Mexican Mountain Road (signed) goes east along the river.

260 Total Climbs

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Location: San Rafael Swell - North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at San Rafael Swell - North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 192
Private Pizza
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 59
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Jamison Engineering
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 93
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 72
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 24
One More Cup of Coffee
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Short Stack
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 50
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Taco Terror
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Mean Weener
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 80
Idiot Wind
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Tippin The Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
BBQ Bomber
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
Blood on the Tracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Private Pizza Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 192
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Jamison Engineering Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 93
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Anchors From Hell Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 72
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
One More Cup of Coffee Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 24
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Short Stack Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Planet Waves Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 50
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Taco Terror Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Mean Weener Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > April Fools Wall
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 80
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Tippin The Bottle Bottleneck Peak
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
BBQ Bomber Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Blood on the Tracks Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in San Rafael Swell - North »

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