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North 40
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amarillo Sunset S 
Barbed Wire S 
Samurai S 
Yosemite Sam S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 2006
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on May 31, 2010

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This route is atypical for the Red. Not a jug haul by any means. Start by traversing in from the left on a crimp rail to reach a jug at the base of a crack/flake. From the jug, find very thin feet and work your way up into the flake (crux). From the flake, aim for a large pocket, find a way to get up on a large jug and then figure out a way to reach the next jug up and left. From here, the climbing eases up as the holds are very positive and the climbing is straight forward. You may want to consider stick clipping the 2nd bolt as there may be potential for ground fall if you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt.


From Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, continue walking left along the cliff. Drop down into the gully and use a hand rope to climb back up to the other side. Samurai is at the top of the hand line on the right.


6 bolts, shuts.

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By kiff
Sep 10, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is incredible; thought provoking moves on exquisite stone.

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