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Sam's Throne

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East Main Bluff 
Northern Exposure 
Outback, The 
Throne, The 
West Main Bluff 

Sam's Throne Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.87509, -93.04751 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,546
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Forecast:
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71°
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89° | 71°
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84° | 69°
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86° | 68°
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88° | 68°
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Description 

Arkansas' true original crag, with hard rooted trad ethics still pertaining to the local mindset this very day. Sam's throne boasts most of the states best traditional style routes as well as a few sport pitches. There are not many sport lines located here at Sam's, but the ones that do exist are of great quality.


Given that there is free camping and easy access from the top of the bluffs at Sam's it does tend to get quite crowded on weekends, and a whole variety of usergroups participate in recreation here. With that in mind do your best to be a steward of the sport and keep climbing friendly at Arkansas' classic crag.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.

Getting There 

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out bostonmountainpress.com

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

138 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',73],['2 Stars',37],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',19],['5.8',23],['5.9',16],['5.10',34],['5.11',19],['5.12',15],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sam's Throne

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sam's Throne:
Last Chance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ...
Diagonal Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Boston Rag   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Poison Ivy   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : Poison Ivy Wall
Slam Dance   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Albino Rhino   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
You Crack Me Up   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Patio Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Razorback Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
White Trash   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
The Natural   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Diet Pepsi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Battle of the Bulge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   West Main Bluff : Coup D'etat Wall
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Past the Jugs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Windy Armbuster   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Instant Karma   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Dead Dog   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   East Main Bluff : Dead Dog & Energamata Walls
Arkansas Reality   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Quantum Leap   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sam's Throne

Featured Route For Sam's Throne
Rock Climbing Photo: Spank Me

Spank Me 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : Outback Wall
A classic jugfest on the underside of an overhanging arete. This route is one of nature's convincing arguments to wean sport climbers off their gym habits. No move too hard for any 5.10 climber, just try to climb fast....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Photos of Sam's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Never fear.  These crags are guarded by knights on...
Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rox
Rox
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the valley below Sam's Throne
View of the valley below Sam's Throne

Comments on Sam's Throne Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Aug 12, 2007
There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!
By cfittell
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012
The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!

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