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Sam's Throne

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East Main Bluff 
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Sam's Throne  


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Location: 35.87051, -93.05253 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
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Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...

Description 

Sam's Throne offers a variety of climbing. Mostly, though, it is a bastion of trad climbing, with a few sport routes thrown in on unprotected faces. Toproping is also popular here, due to the easy access to the tops of most routes.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.

Getting There 

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out bostonmountainpress.com

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

121 Total Routes

['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',63],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',17],['5.8',20],['5.9',15],['5.10',29],['5.11',17],['5.12',14],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sam's Throne:
Fat Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Last Chance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ...
Diagonal Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Boston Rag   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Albino Rhino   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Poison Ivy   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : Poison Ivy Wall
Slam Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Smooth Operator   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
You Crack Me Up   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Patio Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
White Trash   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Razorback Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Diet Pepsi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Windy Armbuster   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Past the Jugs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Instant Karma   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Arkansas Reality   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Quantum Leap   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Browse More Classics in Sam's Throne

Featured Route For Sam's Throne
Working the FFA

Bereavement (Formerly "Dreadlock Rasta") 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : The Plaque Wall
Considered to be one of the most beautiful walls in Arkansas. This route follows the most obvious weakness on the left center of the wall with excellent movement the entire way. Start as for Instant Karma then go right through dihedral, clip a fixed pin, head out right onto the face through a finger crack, horizontals, and finish with a seam using the small crimps on each side up to a small dihedral and roof. One last long move to good ledges and the glorious finish. Climbs more like a face than...[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Photos of Sam's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
Rox
Rox

Comments on Sam's Throne Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Cloutier
From: nomad
Dec 9, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
Broken glass at anchors on rap ledge for chickenhead wall drop in access so watch your ropes.. great climbing, scenery & camping!
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007
There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!
By cfittell
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012
The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!