Sam's Throne offers a variety of climbing. Mostly, though, it is a bastion of trad climbing, with a few sport routes thrown in on unprotected faces. Toproping is also popular here, due to the easy access to the tops of most routes.
The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.
Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.
The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.
The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.
This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.
REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.
Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out bostonmountainpress.com
Weather station 8.6 miles from here
123 Total Routes
['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',63],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in Sam's Throne
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sam's Throne:
Featured Route For Sam's Throne
SuperNatural 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b AR
: Sam's Throne & Surroundings
: ... : The Prow & Reality Wall
I stared at this face for ten years, stopping in amazement one of my first trips down. "Wow!" I thought, "will it ever go?" The more I climbed at Sams Throne, the more I learned what gear would, and wouldn't work, and what it took to do routes ground up in an area where cracks dead ended disappointingly, and finicky seams sometimes gave protection, but oftentimes, not. The obvious blank green face is practically hold-less, but my eyes traced the most possible looking line; up the...[more] Browse More Classics in AR
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...
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Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007
There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012
The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!