Sam's Throne Rock Climbing
Arkansas' true original crag, with hard rooted trad ethics still pertaining to the local mindset this very day. Sam's throne boasts most of the states best traditional style routes as well as a few sport pitches. There are not many sport lines located here at Sam's, but the ones that do exist are of great quality.
Given that there is free camping and easy access from the top of the bluffs at Sam's it does tend to get quite crowded on weekends, and a whole variety of usergroups participate in recreation here. With that in mind do your best to be a steward of the sport and keep climbing friendly at Arkansas' classic crag.
The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.
Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.
The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.
The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.
This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.
REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.
Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out bostonmountainpress.com
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
134 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',70],['2 Stars',35],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sam's Throne
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sam's Throne
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sam's Throne:
Featured Route For Sam's Throne
Bereavement (Formerly "Dreadlock Rasta") 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
: Sam's Throne & Surroundings
: ... : The Plaque Wall
Considered to be one of the most beautiful walls in Arkansas. This route follows the most obvious weakness on the left center of the wall with excellent movement the entire way. Start as for Instant Karma then go right through dihedral, clip a fixed pin, head out right onto the face through a finger crack, horizontals, and finish with a seam using the small crimps on each side up to a small dihedral and roof. One last long move to good ledges and the glorious finish. Climbs more like a face than...[more] Browse More Classics in AR
Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007
There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012
The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!